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Cutting oils/fluids
ok so I am new to machining, I have some questions about cutting lubes, currently I am using some Jancy Cutting Fluid, it says to dilute 1:8 with water, did that and I have been using it for threading mainly, then I noticed that it was eating the paint of my cabinet, bummer, so at work we have a couple gallons of RIDGID cutting oils, they are both mineral oils, one is Dark, the other is Nu-Clear, which is almost the color of apple juice, it says on the bottle that its great for High Speed Threading, could I use this as a general purpose cutting oil for any operation, the Jancy is very liquid, while the RIDGID oils are a little thicker, we use the oils on a RIDGID pipe threading machine. not sure I want to continue the use of the Jancy as im having to cover the bed and the put down rags so the paint don't get ruined any more. thanks
jgedde
Active User
Registered Joined Jun 23, 2011 Messages 786I've done a lot of testing of various cutting fluids on various surfaces. Different commercial brands, lard oil, Crisco, ATF, carbon tet, bacon grease, etc, etc, etc. You name it.
If I had to pick only only one commercially available fluid to keep in my shop and use exclusively for life it would be "Tap Magic EP-xtra" (not the ProTap stuff). It's golden in color vs clear for the ProTap.
Tap Magic EP-xtra is great all around stuff, even on aluminum.
- For aluminum: AlumTap.
- For general purpose machining of steel Tap Magic EP-xtra.
- For challenging jobs in steel: Tap Magic EP-extra, Mistic Metal Mover (or 50/50 mix of Tap-Magic and chlorinated Brakleen*)
- For everything else: Tap Magic EP-xtra.
BTW, nothing I've found works better on challenging steel than carbon tet. But, health, safety and availability issues preclude its use. I tried it once just to see how it did and got amazing results (but I didn't inhale LOL)
chevydyl
Active User
Registered Joined Jun 15, 2013 Messages 1,199so. nothing on the cutting oils I have?
I will prolly have to pick some of the mentioned oils/fluids to try out
Codered741
Active User
Registered Joined May 4, 2013 Messages 249You have two different types of cutting fluids. The jancy is more of a coolant than a cutting oil. This is commonly known as a water-soluble oil. Does some lubricating, but the water that you add does more to cool the part and tool. The oil mainly keeps everything from rusting.
The rigid oils that you have are more for cut lubrication than for cooling. I personally use the dark cutting oil for just about all on my cutting operations. It reduces the cutting force, and leaves a very nice surface finish. This is the only thing that I use when cutting threads.
As for the nu-clear, never used it, but it should behave much like the dark oil, but will stain parts and equipment less.
SteelSlicer
Registered
Registered Joined Jun 30, 2013 Messages 10Hi all,
I run the R&D machine shop at work, been a machinist for 25 years. The water soluble fluids, such as the Jancy, are mainly designed to be used as a flood coolant. They work best in something like an enclosed cnc machine where you get real good flow to take the heat away from the tool. Like Codered741 said, the oil keeps things from rusting. The Rigid pipe threading oils are probably fine, but if you're ever going to put it on brass, try some on a piece of scrap first. If its got sulfur in it, it will turn the brass black. But sulfur cutting oil is fantastic on stainless, especially the tougher grades. Most of what I do is aluminum, Delrin, 303, 304 & 316 ss, and I use LPS Tapmatic #1 in a Hench Fog Buster on everything. The Fog Buster is is kind of pricey (approx. $300) but if you find one used, they are really great. I have the half gallon model, and I refill it every 4 months or so, and that's using it daily, so over the long run, you save on how much cutting oil you use (Tapmatic is $85/gallon). It doesn't spray a mist, but puts a very small amount of oil out in 5-20 psi air. When you're done cutting, the part has a light film of oil, but you don't have drops being thrown all over, really helps keep the work area (and operator) clean.
stern
Active User
Registered Joined Apr 2, 2013 Messages 230Hi all,
I run the R&D machine shop at work, been a machinist for 25 years. The water soluble fluids, such as the Jancy, are mainly designed to be used as a flood coolant. They work best in something like an enclosed cnc machine where you get real good flow to take the heat away from the tool. Like Codered741 said, the oil keeps things from rusting. The Rigid pipe threading oils are probably fine, but if you're ever going to put it on brass, try some on a piece of scrap first. If its got sulfur in it, it will turn the brass black. But sulfur cutting oil is fantastic on stainless, especially the tougher grades. Most of what I do is aluminum, Delrin, 303, 304 & 316 ss, and I use LPS Tapmatic #1 in a Hench Fog Buster on everything. The Fog Buster is is kind of pricey (approx. $300) but if you find one used, they are really great. I have the half gallon model, and I refill it every 4 months or so, and that's using it daily, so over the long run, you save on how much cutting oil you use (Tapmatic is $85/gallon). It doesn't spray a mist, but puts a very small amount of oil out in 5-20 psi air. When you're done cutting, the part has a light film of oil, but you don't have drops being thrown all over, really helps keep the work area (and operator) clean.
Have LOTS of Rigid cutting oil as I run 2 Rigid 300 machines all the time (I do pipe fitting), and sometimes use it for tapping big holes. I still use only the white milk looking water soluable coolant for my lathe and mill (cant remember the name, but mixes with water 40:1 and ened up having to buy a 10 gal pail, just like the way lube lol). While the rigid oils work good for pipe threading, they actually dont cool very well (you can see it smoke when threading 2" pipe) and is mainly used to keep the threads cool enough that they wont start sticking to the die head teeth.
Tap Magic EP-xtra is great all around stuff, even on aluminum.
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