Common issues with the Aqua Magic Style II water valve and how to fix them

The Aqua Magic Style II water valve is an essential component of the water delivery system in many RVs and motorhomes. It controls the flow of water to the toilet, ensuring that it flushes properly and efficiently. Over time, the water valve may experience wear and tear, resulting in leaks or a malfunctioning flush. In such cases, it becomes necessary to repair or replace the water valve. To repair the Aqua Magic Style II water valve, you will need a few tools and a replacement valve. The tools required may include a screwdriver, pliers, and an adjustable wrench.

The water in most RV locations is NOT really high quality water, first off. One place I stayed at, I asked, they said it was 'city water', and that night, I could actually smell petroleum in the water as it came out the faucet! Pretty bad. Bottom line, you normally don't know the source of the water that you hook up to. Even in the best of campsites, you have high pressure, low pressure, and iron or lime scale to contend with, just like in your house.

If you will soften your water, upstream of your RV water filter, your filters will last longer, your faucets, shower heads, and especially your toilet valves will last longer, and you will end up not cussing out fixtures that can t tolerate hard water. One place I stayed at, I asked, they said it was city water , and that night, I could actually smell petroleum in the water as it came out the faucet.

The tools required may include a screwdriver, pliers, and an adjustable wrench. First, you need to turn off the water supply to the toilet. This can usually be done by turning off a valve located near the toilet or by shutting off the main water supply to the RV.

Thetford style II failing. Again.

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SargeW

Site Team

This is nuts. I have had my new MH less than 2 years, and I am on my 2nd toilet, and this one has already had the water valve replaced once. The failure is always the same. The flush pedal starts to stick and move slowly when depressed and released. It progressively gets worse until the blade seal won't close unless you pull it up with your toe. And the water valve starts leaking, slowly at first then faster.

Each time I call Thetford and we start the dance of well, we will send you some new parts. I install them, and it works for a few months. Then the whole process starts over again. At first they sent me a new toilet. I installed it, and all was well. For a while. Then after about 6 months the water valve started sticking and dripping. Another new water valve and blade seal and all was well again. Now yesterday the process is starting over again .

I have never had the problems with any RV toilet like I have with this model. The Aqua Magic Style II. What a joke. Another phone call tomorrow. There has got to be a better way.

Gary RV_Wizard

Site Team

PancakeBill

Well-known member

bucks2

Guest

I have the same toilet and the same problem. I have tracked it to the ball valve gets sticky and won't slide. With a glove on, and the water off, take a finger full of grease and lube the rubber gasket/seal in the hole. Crook your finger and wipe it on the bottom side of the hole. Also a little lube smeared like caulk at the left side of the ball so it gets smeared into that area helps. I use plain old chassis grease from the tube.

This allows the pedal to move freely again and the ball to close all the way. If the ball isn't closing all the way, then the linkage that opens the water valve stays open and keeps flowing water. I doubt that you have a water valve leak, just a ball that's not closing all the way.

I lube my toilet about every 2 weeks, or right after my wife scrubs the toilet. She loves to get the brush down and scrub hard taking all lubrication out. I tried using a silicone spray lube but had no luck. I understand Pam cooking spray may help also but haven't tried it.

I agree it shouldn't need greased every two weeks, but it's a solution that works.

SargeW

Site Team

Apparently Gary they have had a problem with the seal they are using swelling up and causing the problem. They still have not solved it though. Is the footprint on that 500 Sealand the same as the Style II Bill? I am seriously thinking of going that direction.

PancakeBill

Well-known member

Same footprint. Holes same alignment. even got the water supply flex to line upp. Only trick part, is two big screws to stabilize are a biyt hard to get to, A palm size drill with hex bit will solve.

SargeW

Site Team

Ken, I thought that was my issue too at first. Then I noticed that I was getting a drip out of the waste ball actuator arm (that the water valve fits into). It starts slow but increases. Run your finger under the opening on the right side of the toilet to make sure your seal is still holding.

Bill, you mean the flange bolts that hold the toilet down need to be enlarged?

PancakeBill

Well-known member

No enlarging needed, The 500 has two screws the other one doesn't, all the way to the back, not in the flange Just stabilizes.

SargeW

Site Team

Oh, I get it. Thanks. I am looking around for prices. I am betting the next water valve is going to fail in short order.

PancakeBill

Well-known member

staytonor

Member

Try turning off the water, draining the bowl, then pouring a small amount of mineral oil around the waste ball seal. Use enough to get oil all the way around the seal, then work the foot valve 3 or 4 times to spread the oil. Turn the water back on and you are good for another week or two. Takes about two minutes. I installed a water shutoff valve behind my toilet.

skyking1

Well-known member

Thanks for the "heads Up" on this, I really appreciate gems like these. I was probably getting a style plus for my new trailer, not so much now.

SargeW

Site Team

Staytoner, the sticky pedal is only part of the issue. The leaking water valve is the bigger part of the issue. I have a small bowl under the water valve on the floor. I dump about a half inch of water out of it in 2 days. There is something about the design that keeps failing. I have never had a RV toilet before with this issue.

The most recent time I contacted Thetford about the problem, the rep that answered tried to tell me that it was my fault for cleaning the bowl with standard household products. Then I told her that the toilet pedal was sticking and not holding water when it was brand new! The reply was "Oh, well we will send you a modified water valve for free". I am not impressed. I will install it (again) and see how long it lasts. Then I will be looking for the best price on a Sealand replacement.

Dustdevil

New member

A little late to reply on this, but found the post while searching for another Thetford issue, and thought I might offer help for anyone stumbling on this issue in the future.

I use my RV for jobsite living (No motel bedbugs for this experienced traveler)! And, as a result of a lot of travel, a lot of long-term RV stays, and experience in breaking just about every part ever made, I can offer up what I know about the famous 'toilet water valve' failed again issue.

The water in most RV locations is NOT really high quality water, first off. One place I stayed at, I asked, they said it was 'city water', and that night, I could actually smell petroleum in the water as it came out the faucet! Pretty bad. Bottom line, you normally don't know the source of the water that you hook up to. Even in the best of campsites, you have high pressure, low pressure, and iron or lime scale to contend with, just like in your house.

I stayed for almost a year in North Dakota, full-time, and had no problem with water. I lost two toilet water valves in a year in Phoenix, in less than that same amount of time. My personal experience, and the subsequent fix, convinces me to ALWAYS use one piece of gear that few do, when they RV. A water softener. Without fail, the 95-percent cause of water valve failure is hard water, normally calcium (lime scale) deposits in the local water. I've had it so bad in East Texas, that in a week, my shower looked like someone had sprayed cake icing inside it. That was, until I started 'softening' my water. I have been on the same toilet, the same valve now for 2-years, no problems.

For about $180, you can pick up one of the 10000 grain water softeners at most any decent RV store. Mine is a Watts RV-Pro 1000, and uses 2-boxes of table salt to recharge it, takes about 30-minutes. If you will soften your water, upstream of your RV water filter, your filters will last longer, your faucets, shower heads, and especially your toilet valves will last longer, and you will end up not cussing out fixtures that can't tolerate hard water. It really is the junky water causing the problems after all.

881buster

New member

Good day to all of you. I realize I am in the tail end of this discussion by a few months. As I am new to your forum, I would like to put my 2 sense into the problem Thetford style 2 rv toilet. My wife and I own a Salem Grand Villa. It is the Taj-Ma-Hall of RV's. It was delivered with the style 2. The rv is 3 years old and the toilet has begun to leak from behind the flush pedal at the water valve. As I am a retired plumber of 35 years, The repair of the valve is not an issue. However after inquiring about the valve replacement, I was informed by a very reputable rv dealer that a newly designed replacement valve was available. Upon further inspection of the new and the old valve, They are identical in every way and the only difference I can muster is that the rubber O-rings may be made of different material to better withstand the harsh water conditions. In any event I returned the new valve and rebuilt the original with O-rings. I removed the toilet and dismantled completely. Upon reassemble, I generously applied plumbers grease to all moving parts as well as O-rings. Pam cooking spray may be a temp fix but is also a petroleum based product and will destroy the rubber seals. Plumbers grease is a non-petroleum based product that is impervious to water and is designed for the very application that this discussion is about. Once the toilet rebuild was complete, The pedal moved more freely and the water leak disappeared. It took me all of 2 hours from start to finish and was worth the effort. How long it lasts has yet to be determined. Good luck with all of your toilet projects. Remember an once of prevention is worth a pound of cure.

Kittywee

New member

Sorry, I cannot help - that part of my toilet is fine. My problem is that the water is suddenly just a trickle! Pressure elsewhere is RV is good. Any suggestions will be gratefully received.
I have a 2012 Pleasure Way on the Sprinter.

SargeW

Site Team

You either have a kinked hose on the back of the toilet, or possibly a hard water calcium build up in the line to the toilet. Pull off the line to the toilet after turning the water off. Put the line in a bowl and have someone turn the water on. If the water trickles out of the line it's an obstruction in the hose. If there is pressure on the line, the obstruction is in the valve.

Alfa38User

Well-known member

There is also plastic vacuum breaker in the flush water line that is skillfully hidden behind the toilet. That may be defective. Mine leaked and so it was easier to find and replace but. since it was so well hidden. it took a bit of work to identify it and get at it.

Kittywee

New member

Thank you both, I will try this when it is cooler - 96F at the moment!
This situation started suddenly and there is good pressure in the nearby hand basin, so it may be the valve rather than calcium in the line. I usually try not to hook up to park water as my home water is good.

I use my RV for jobsite living (No motel bedbugs for this experienced traveler)! And, as a result of a lot of travel, a lot of long-term RV stays, and experience in breaking just about every part ever made, I can offer up what I know about the famous 'toilet water valve' failed again issue.

Next, locate the water valve, which is usually located underneath or behind the toilet. It will have a small handle or lever that is used to flush the toilet. Remove the lid of the toilet and set it aside. Using a screwdriver or pliers, disconnect the water supply hose from the water valve. This hose is usually connected using a threaded connection or a compression fitting. Carefully loosen and remove the connection, making sure to catch any water that may spill out. Once the water supply hose is removed, you can access the water valve itself. Using an adjustable wrench, carefully loosen and remove the nuts that secure the valve in place. Take note of the orientation of the valve and any rubber gaskets or seals that may be present. With the nuts removed, the water valve should easily slide out. Inspect the valve for any signs of damage or wear. If necessary, replace the valve with a new one. Ensure that the new valve is the correct model for your Aqua Magic Style II toilet. To install the new water valve, simply reverse the removal steps. Slide the valve into place and secure it with the nuts. Make sure to tighten the nuts enough to create a watertight seal, but be careful not to overtighten and damage the valve or gaskets. Once the water valve is securely in place, reattach the water supply hose. Use a screwdriver or pliers to tighten the connection, ensuring that it is snug and leaks are prevented. Finally, turn the water supply back on and test the toilet. Flush the toilet and check for any leaks or malfunctions. If everything is working properly, replace the lid and enjoy your newly repaired Aqua Magic Style II toilet. Repairing the Aqua Magic Style II water valve is a relatively straightforward process that can be done by most RV owners. Following these steps and taking the time to properly inspect and install the new valve will help ensure a successful repair and a properly functioning toilet..

Reviews for "Quick fixes for a stuck water valve on your Aqua Magic Style II toilet"

1. John - 1 star - The Aqua magic style ii water valve repair was a complete waste of money. I bought it after reading all the positive reviews, but it did not live up to the hype. The valve was flimsy and kept leaking, no matter how many times I tried to fix it. I ended up having to buy a different brand altogether to solve my plumbing issues. I would not recommend this product to anyone.

2. Lisa - 2 stars - I had high hopes for the Aqua magic style ii water valve repair, but unfortunately, it fell short. The instructions were unclear and the valve itself was difficult to install. Even after taking my time and following the steps carefully, it still had leaks. I had to call a professional plumber to fix the issue, and they recommended a different brand. Save yourself the hassle and choose a different option.

3. Mike - 2 stars - The Aqua magic style ii water valve repair did not work as advertised. I followed the instructions to a tee, but it did not fix the leaks in my water valve. The product felt cheap and poorly made, and it was frustrating to spend money on something that didn't deliver the results I needed. I ended up having to call a plumber, who recommended a different product that actually solved the problem. I would not recommend this valve repair to others.

How to replace the water valve on your Aqua Magic Style II toilet