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I've got a single axle AL trailer by Magic Tilt that is going into it's third season of saltwater use. Have actually been quite happy with it. Some galvanized parts as mentioned. Torsion axle. I religiously wash it down, and often spray parts with Fluid Film.

I have used Wesco trailers for years now, mostly because the owner was a really great guy who gave me the best service you could expect from any company. The bolts supporting the bunks were steel not aluminum and nearly disintegrated, the guide post were galvanized and one had fallen off last year from corrosion I have now replaced both with aluminum.

Trailer components for Magic Tilt trailers

It helps to protect the hair from damage and breakage, promoting healthy, luscious curls. Another notable ingredient is shea butter. Shea butter is well-known for its moisturizing and conditioning properties.

Magic tilt or should I say Tragic Tilt

Just wanted to give purchasers or owners of Magic Tilt trailers a heads up or warning. I have a BR 230 with the custom Magic Tilt trailer. Mine is a 2014 model. I use the trailer about 5 times per year and have always washed off trailer after using in salt water. I even used Salt Away. Since I only use the trailer to travel about 1 mile to the ramp I have not had my trailer serviced until this year. The repair shop I went to was excellent and showed me the problems with this trailer. The bolts supporting the bunks were steel not aluminum and nearly disintegrated, the guide post were galvanized and one had fallen off last year from corrosion I have now replaced both with aluminum. Lug nuts were plain steel not Stainless.There were other issues like the brakes not working but this is pretty common for salt water trailers. My point is why build an aluminum trailer and use galvanized components which will not last. I think it is just a poor decision by Magic Tilt. I ended up spending $1400 to bring the trailer up to good condition and this is not even fixing the brakes. That would have been another $1000. I left the brakes off because I only tow the boat 1 mile to a ramp.

Packer
BR196 Honda 130
BR230 Yamaha 200XB
2nd generation Ulterra 3,792 2,103 Frequent Contributor 3,792 2,103

Mar 31, 2020 #2 2020-03-31T12:44

Cost cutting measures, plain and simple. My aluminum Continental trailer has galvanized U and regular bolts. They will be replaced as time permits. Please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe galvanized against aluminum is not a good combination??

Jim
2002 KW 1720 CC / Yamaha 90 TLRA
YT: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUu9ut . 1abkOGQJcA 6,743 2,764 Moderator 6,743 2,764

Mar 31, 2020 #3 2020-03-31T13:13

I don't think you can buy an off-the-shelf aluminum trailer that doesn't have at least some galvanized components -- many trailer parts are only made with galvanized steel, whether because of commodity or structural reasons I can't say. But I have owned several aluminum trailers from different brands and they all have galvanized pieces and brackets.

Trailer components tend to be generic and used across different trailer brands. There are only 1-2 trailer component suppliers in the US that I know of and all their brackets and attachment parts are galvanized steel.

My current trailer is a Venture, very nice trailer. The main beams are aluminum, but almost everything else is galvanized steel or stainless steel. As required, they use polymer pads and shims between dissimilar metals, which is a must to ward off galvanic corrosion. If your Magic Tilt didn't have these pads, that is almost surely the cause of problems. To me, the use of galvanized components is normal and you will see that on every off-the-shelf aluminum trailer.

2016 203FS - F150 Yamaha
2013 189FS - F115 Yamaha (sold) 4,228 2,637 Technical Advisor 4,228 2,637

Mar 31, 2020 #4 2020-03-31T13:35

I am not in the trailer building business, thankfully. I have dealt with thousands of trailers in my life, and different brands. I have asked the same question, "Why build an aluminum trailer and use all those galvanized parts?"

I have had some good friends in the trailer business. People I would consider honest hard working people in general. Their answer sounds logical. In some areas you need the strength of steel in a smaller part. For instance, the tongue of an aluminum trailer is generally galv steel instead of aluminum because it is a high stress area. A winch stand another high stress example, and these parts are commonly not aluminum. I have seen aluminum used, but not at all common. But how about those fasteners? I have used Wesco trailers for years now, mostly because the owner was a really great guy who gave me the best service you could expect from any company. I consequently sent a ton of business his way. He retired and sold the company to a couple of Canadian guys. They stepped up and filled his shoes without missing a beat. Back to those fasteners though. Same as the other mentioned parts, some fasteners just need the strength of steel, so it's common to see cadmium plated fasteners on trailers. For salt water use they have a "Salt Water" package option. That consists of SS fasteners throughout. It's a nice option and really helps to keep the trailer looking and working better long term. Only so much that can be done with brakes, but there are upgrades there too.

I know the trailer business is a tough one. Those guys are welcome to it. Most of the builders now have a stainless package or salt water option. I urge anyone using their boat in salt to opt for this package.

Please send all inquiries to [email protected]

mike.dix.e likes this post 1 person likes this post MORE 470 295 Contributing Member 470 295

Mar 31, 2020 #5 2020-03-31T13:59

Yes, you should say Tragic Tilt. My 239fs came atop a dealer chosen magic tilt. The trailer is junk. I don’t even know where to begin. If I keep the boat as long as I anticipate, I will absolutely have to buy another trailer at some point.

2016 Key West 239fs, Yamaha 300
1999 Dynasty FM 2350, Merc 225 (sold)
1997 Sea Ark 170, 1982 Johnson 140
1974 Polarcraft 14' Bateaux, 1977 Merc 20
1958 Johnson Seahorse 35
1957 Johnson Seahorse 7&1/2

1,103 243 Frequent Contributor 1,103 243

Mar 31, 2020 #6 2020-03-31T15:29

Pinecrestjim wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020

Cost cutting measures, plain and simple. My aluminum Continental trailer has galvanized U and regular bolts. They will be replaced as time permits. Please correct me if I am wrong, but I believe galvanized against aluminum is not a good combination??

You are correct.

Mar 31, 2020 #7 2020-03-31T15:36

Tom Marlowe wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020

I am not in the trailer building business, thankfully. I have dealt with thousands of trailers in my life, and different brands. I have asked the same question, "Why build an aluminum trailer and use all those galvanized parts?"

I have had some good friends in the trailer business. People I would consider honest hard working people in general. Their answer sounds logical. In some areas you need the strength of steel in a smaller part. For instance, the tongue of an aluminum trailer is generally galv steel instead of aluminum because it is a high stress area. A winch stand another high stress example, and these parts are commonly not aluminum. I have seen aluminum used, but not at all common. But how about those fasteners? I have used Wesco trailers for years now, mostly because the owner was a really great guy who gave me the best service you could expect from any company. I consequently sent a ton of business his way. He retired and sold the company to a couple of Canadian guys. They stepped up and filled his shoes without missing a beat. Back to those fasteners though. Same as the other mentioned parts, some fasteners just need the strength of steel, so it's common to see cadmium plated fasteners on trailers. For salt water use they have a "Salt Water" package option. That consists of SS fasteners throughout. It's a nice option and really helps to keep the trailer looking and working better long term. Only so much that can be done with brakes, but there are upgrades there too.

I know the trailer business is a tough one. Those guys are welcome to it. Most of the builders now have a stainless package or salt water option. I urge anyone using their boat in salt to opt for this package.

Tom, mostly agree with you but Magic Tilt builds a trailer specifically for the BR 230. It even says so on the labels. I bet 90% of your BR 230's are salt water boats so why not make the trailer as salt water proof as possible. My trailer repair shop knows how to repair the trailer correctly so why shouldn't a manufacture? Bottom line is they want to make the trailer inexpensive to be competitive and not worry about what happens after the sale a few years down the road. I guess reputation in the trailer business is not as important as a boat manufacturer's reputation. Maybe the boat dealers should explain better to the consumer. A BR 230 is not inexpensive . I would gladly have paid the extra money to have a true salt water trailer.
I have had different boats all my life and I know the weak link in trailable boats is the trailer.

Packer
BR196 Honda 130
BR230 Yamaha 200XB
2nd generation Ulterra 2,286 1,623 Frequent Contributor 2,286 1,623

Mar 31, 2020 #8 2020-03-31T16:02

I've got a single axle AL trailer by Magic Tilt that is going into it's third season of saltwater use. Have actually been quite happy with it. Some galvanized parts as mentioned. Torsion axle. I religiously wash it down, and often spray parts with Fluid Film.

Boat: 2002 1720 DC
Motor: 2000 Evinrude Ficht Ram 90
Tow vehicle: 2016 Toyota Tacoma V6 with towing package
My 1720 build thread

944 431 Contributing Member 944 431

Mar 31, 2020 #9 2020-03-31T17:45

packer wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020

Just wanted to give purchasers or owners of Magic Tilt trailers a heads up or warning. I have a BR 230 with the custom Magic Tilt trailer. Mine is a 2014 model. I use the trailer about 5 times per year and have always washed off trailer after using in salt water.

. doesn't matter how hard you try, it will corrode.

The best way i found so far to rinse the trailer is to dip it back in fresh water after using it in salt water.
I leave the boat on, strapped and go in and out few time with pause between. so the water can get inside the frame too.
I flush the engine at the same time during a pause.
Just have to be careful that the boat doesn't float the trailer off the ramp.

'01 2020DC w/txrz 150 1,103 243 Frequent Contributor 1,103 243

Mar 31, 2020 #10 2020-03-31T17:51

wildspeed wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020 packer wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020

Just wanted to give purchasers or owners of Magic Tilt trailers a heads up or warning. I have a BR 230 with the custom Magic Tilt trailer. Mine is a 2014 model. I use the trailer about 5 times per year and have always washed off trailer after using in salt water.

. doesn't matter how hard you try, it will corrode.

The best way i found so far to rinse the trailer is to dip it back in fresh water after using it in salt water.
I leave the boat on, strapped and go in and out few time with pause between. so the water can get inside the frame too.
I flush the engine at the same time during a pause.
Just have to be careful that the boat doesn't float the trailer off the ramp.

Not practical in SW Florida. Packer
BR196 Honda 130
BR230 Yamaha 200XB
2nd generation Ulterra 80 75 Contributing Member 80 75

Mar 31, 2020 #11 2020-03-31T18:25

My 2017 210BR was a one year old boat with 80 hours when I purchased it. Came with the same Magic Tilt so many others are equipped with in my area. Galvanized and steel parts all over the trailer, including the rusted springs and brakes. Could not wait to get rid of this trailer before having issues. I owned a trailer which I had customed built for another boat 6 months prior. Redid the bunks and sold the Magic Tilt. This trailer, built by Peterson Trailers near me, is an awesome trailer. Kodiak KodoGuard brakes, torsion axles, aluminum draw bar, guide posts, bunk brackets, all stainless hardware, etc. Only non-aluminum/stainless parts are the winch stand, axles, coupler and brakes, which work as designed. I coat it with Rupp's Aluma Guard a couple times a year. Definitely worth a few hundredd $$ more to have peace of mind and the ability to tow my boat anywhere. Would highly recommend Peterson's to anyone. The owner, Jason, builds the trailers and his wife does the admin stuff. Their customer service is second to none.

2017 KW 210BR VF200
2019 Peterson Trailer
2019 GMC Sierra Denali 5,539 2,893 Frequent Contributor 5,539 2,893

Mar 31, 2020 #12 2020-03-31T23:39

packer wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020

Just wanted to give purchasers or owners of Magic Tilt trailers a heads up or warning. I have a BR 230 with the custom Magic Tilt trailer. Mine is a 2014 model. I use the trailer about 5 times per year and have always washed off trailer after using in salt water. I even used Salt Away. Since I only use the trailer to travel about 1 mile to the ramp I have not had my trailer serviced until this year. The repair shop I went to was excellent and showed me the problems with this trailer. The bolts supporting the bunks were steel not aluminum and nearly disintegrated, the guide post were galvanized and one had fallen off last year from corrosion I have now replaced both with aluminum. Lug nuts were plain steel not Stainless.There were other issues like the brakes not working but this is pretty common for salt water trailers. My point is why build an aluminum trailer and use galvanized components which will not last. I think it is just a poor decision by Magic Tilt. I ended up spending $1400 to bring the trailer up to good condition and this is not even fixing the brakes. That would have been another $1000. I left the brakes off because I only tow the boat 1 mile to a ramp.

$1400. to replace hardware? I don't get it. Most trailers use zinc plated or galvanized hardware as standard equipment. galvanized being the better of the two. Galvanized came on my Venture trailer, and I replaced a lot of the hardware and lug nuts myself with SS at minimal cost. I also periodically use fluid film and/or galvanizing spray on any areas that would be considered corrosion prone.
When I ordered the trailer I elected to get the SS disc brake option, but not the SS hardware. I knew I could do that myself at less cost.
The trailer is going on its 3rd season, and shows zero corrosion related issues. I'm very thorough with cleaning it after salt water use. Just sayin.

FORMER BOAT DEALER
GENERAL MANAGER at HITCHCOCK MARINE
"Where Boating is Affordable"
www.hitchcocklandmarkmarine.com
Bulls Bay 2000 / 140 Suzuki
Key West 203FS / 175 Yamaha
Key West 189FS / 115 Yamaha

461 97 Contributing Member 461 97

Apr 01, 2020 #13 2020-04-01T02:09

As I’ve said on this forum more than once, God gave us boats and the devil gave us trailers. 230 Bay Reef w/Yamaha F250XB d.p 210br, packer like this post 2 people like this post MORE 1,103 243 Frequent Contributor 1,103 243

Apr 01, 2020 #14 2020-04-01T02:58

captaindan wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020 packer wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020

Just wanted to give purchasers or owners of Magic Tilt trailers a heads up or warning. I have a BR 230 with the custom Magic Tilt trailer. Mine is a 2014 model. I use the trailer about 5 times per year and have always washed off trailer after using in salt water. I even used Salt Away. Since I only use the trailer to travel about 1 mile to the ramp I have not had my trailer serviced until this year. The repair shop I went to was excellent and showed me the problems with this trailer. The bolts supporting the bunks were steel not aluminum and nearly disintegrated, the guide post were galvanized and one had fallen off last year from corrosion I have now replaced both with aluminum. Lug nuts were plain steel not Stainless.There were other issues like the brakes not working but this is pretty common for salt water trailers. My point is why build an aluminum trailer and use galvanized components which will not last. I think it is just a poor decision by Magic Tilt. I ended up spending $1400 to bring the trailer up to good condition and this is not even fixing the brakes. That would have been another $1000. I left the brakes off because I only tow the boat 1 mile to a ramp.

$1400. to replace hardware? I don't get it. Most trailers use zinc plated or galvanized hardware as standard equipment. galvanized being the better of the two. Galvanized came on my Venture trailer, and I replaced a lot of the hardware and lug nuts myself with SS at minimal cost. I also periodically use fluid film and/or galvanizing spray on any areas that would be considered corrosion prone.
When I ordered the trailer I elected to get the SS disc brake option, but not the SS hardware. I knew I could do that myself at less cost.
The trailer is going on its 3rd season, and shows zero corrosion related issues. I'm very thorough with cleaning it after salt water use. Just sayin.

Some of that expense was not related to the poor quality of the trailer but the poor quality items I mentioned were most disconcerting. I also replaced the bunks, the jack stand, winch strap, one light, hub sleeves, and hub kit. I wanted to bring the trailer up to highest reliability standards since I had the trailer in the shop anyway. Labor was $640 and the rest were parts. The trailer was actually the trailer the dealer had his boat on and I saved $1,000 by buying his 1 year old trailer. If I would buy again I would certainly investigate the trailer more thoroughly. If I knew then what I know now I would carefully spec out the trailer. I did however wash the trailer religiously after every use with Salt Away and am just surprised a trailer for a salt water boat was not better made for the salt environment, another life lesson.

Packer
BR196 Honda 130
BR230 Yamaha 200XB
2nd generation Ulterra 5,539 2,893 Frequent Contributor 5,539 2,893

Apr 01, 2020 #15 2020-04-01T17:28

packer wrote: ↑ Apr 01, 2020 captaindan wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020 packer wrote: ↑ Mar 31, 2020

Just wanted to give purchasers or owners of Magic Tilt trailers a heads up or warning. I have a BR 230 with the custom Magic Tilt trailer. Mine is a 2014 model. I use the trailer about 5 times per year and have always washed off trailer after using in salt water. I even used Salt Away. Since I only use the trailer to travel about 1 mile to the ramp I have not had my trailer serviced until this year. The repair shop I went to was excellent and showed me the problems with this trailer. The bolts supporting the bunks were steel not aluminum and nearly disintegrated, the guide post were galvanized and one had fallen off last year from corrosion I have now replaced both with aluminum. Lug nuts were plain steel not Stainless.There were other issues like the brakes not working but this is pretty common for salt water trailers. My point is why build an aluminum trailer and use galvanized components which will not last. I think it is just a poor decision by Magic Tilt. I ended up spending $1400 to bring the trailer up to good condition and this is not even fixing the brakes. That would have been another $1000. I left the brakes off because I only tow the boat 1 mile to a ramp.

$1400. to replace hardware? I don't get it. Most trailers use zinc plated or galvanized hardware as standard equipment. galvanized being the better of the two. Galvanized came on my Venture trailer, and I replaced a lot of the hardware and lug nuts myself with SS at minimal cost. I also periodically use fluid film and/or galvanizing spray on any areas that would be considered corrosion prone.
When I ordered the trailer I elected to get the SS disc brake option, but not the SS hardware. I knew I could do that myself at less cost.
The trailer is going on its 3rd season, and shows zero corrosion related issues. I'm very thorough with cleaning it after salt water use. Just sayin.

Some of that expense was not related to the poor quality of the trailer but the poor quality items I mentioned were most disconcerting. I also replaced the bunks, the jack stand, winch strap, one light, hub sleeves, and hub kit. I wanted to bring the trailer up to highest reliability standards since I had the trailer in the shop anyway. Labor was $640 and the rest were parts. The trailer was actually the trailer the dealer had his boat on and I saved $1,000 by buying his 1 year old trailer. If I would buy again I would certainly investigate the trailer more thoroughly. If I knew then what I know now I would carefully spec out the trailer. I did however wash the trailer religiously after every use with Salt Away and am just surprised a trailer for a salt water boat was not better made for the salt environment, another life lesson.

Gotcha.
It's been my experience that seldom is the trailer given much thought when a boat/motor/trailer package is being purchased. Typically, the most the customer asks is: Is a trailer included . and maybe asks about the material. and maybe single or tandem axle. that's about it.

I never treated it that way. to me, it's as important an item as the boat and motor. Lousy, incorrect, or undersized trailer = bad boating experience.

I always made it a point to discuss the trailer with the customer. choices, options, upgrades, brakes, etc. I also sold a LOT of replacement trailers for all kinds of boats. pretty much became the local trailer source. Yes, there are differences between brands, configurations, capacities, materials, brakes, suspension, tires, etc. and they're all important if one wants a hassle-free trailering experience.
Sadly, today I think. for the most part. dealers treat the trailer like a necessary evil. Keep it cheap and don't really talk about it much. It's my view that's a mistake for both the dealer and the customer. A few hundred bucks can make the difference between a marginal trailer and an all-around good one for most any boat.

Mar 31, 2020 #8 2020-03-31T16:02
Mr robot stresming

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mr robot stresming

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