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No, stainless is a high quality item. Too expensive for the big boxes. I get mine from: http://www.swansecure.com -- J.S.

The hitachi coil is probably the most versatile nailer I have and would be my choice but for a diy like yourself id go with an inexpensive stick nailer that you can get nails for in whatever store you usually shop at. The sketch is designed to compensate for any rotation of the board around the wand s shaft, so as long as it s parallel to the wand s length the board s twist won t matter.

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Nail Gun Recommendation

I’m an average DIYer and recently moved into a 75 year old house which needs alot of work. This week I’m building a fence so I can keep the dogs and kids in place and then will begin to gut a bathroom I”m redoing. Long story short, the amount of work I’ll be doing over the next several years justifies buying a framing/general nailgun to go along with my compressor and finish nailer. It also means I’ll be asking alot of questions here and there on this board – I’ve been amazed at the wealth of knowledge found here and the sense of community goodwill. So, any recommendations on a nail gun for me?

Replies

Welcome to the boards, Dan. I've got Porter Cable finish guns as well as a framing nailer. The 15-gauge, angled finish nailer is my favorite for trim work -- the nails are heavy enough that they don't bend and change direction in the grain as often as 16- or 18-gauge nails do. I'm primarily a finish carpenter, so this gun has performed a lot of work for me and I've had no problems. As for the PC framing gun, I might just have a lemon, but I'm unhappy with it to the point that I never really use it anymore. Mine has a heavy recoil, and a tendency to bunny hop and double-fire. I have a Paslode framer that has worked absolutely great so far, and since I'm not heavily involved with framing, it suits my needs. I've heard good things about Hitachi framing guns. Maybe others can chime in with their recommendations there.

welcome since you plan on asking a lot of questions you should put some information in your profile, like where you are. nail guns questions come up often, there is a search function that might help Oh, there's a quy named Rez that might come along. think I'll leave it there.

Today I saw in Home Depot (Marion, IN) a Bostich framing nailer, stick, for $199.00. It was packed in a 48 qt. cooler and came with 50 feet of 1/4" hose (I have no idea if the hose is any good. They had two left. It was a markdown. I think the Bostich would serve your purposes, it isn't the best, but it is pretty good and the price is right (I haven't had any problems with mine). Rich Beckman Another day, another tool.

I use SENCO. If you plan on keeping the gun getting repair parts or service should be a consideration. Since the PC framer has already been mentioned. I had one for a total of 2 hours before I returned it. That gun is DANGEROUS!

I'm in the same boat as you. Except my house is 40+ years old. Doing the labor myself is my excuse to buy some great tools! ;-) I have an Hitachi stick framer -- an NR83AA. I bought it from Lowes or HD because Hitachi was offering a great deal where it was bundled with a good compressor. I like it. Check the capacity of the compressor that came with your finish nailer and see if it has enough oomph to power a framer at a reasonable clip. If it won't make it, shop the special deals where the nailer and the compressor are bundled. This week is a good time to look because the tool sales tend to happen before fathers day. If your compressor will handle it, you can just shop for the nailer. You can tell a lot by holding them in your hand and seeing what you like the feel of. If you can get to the library or have back issues, FHB March, 2002 has a nice framing nailer survey. In a nutshell, the authors' favorite stick framing nailers were Bostich N88RH and Max SN890RH. Their favorite coil framing nailers were Makita AN901 and Max CN 890 II. If you need it, FHB May 2006 has an article on portable air compressors. I agree with the first respondant about 15 Ga angled finish nailers. That is my new favorite. I bought mine a couple of weeks ago and put up a bunch of relatively heavy (1 X 3 and 1 X 4) interior molding. Hitachi NT65MA2 is what I got. Next weekend I'll put my exterior moldings up with it and I'll have it paid for with my sweat. Good luck with your search!

I've got the big Bostich N88 (full round head stick) and the matching 15-gage angled finish nailer. And their coil roofing nailer. All have been super, indestructable (almost) and quick to service when I did break a plunger (I dropped the framer off a roof) All from Tool Crib on sale Forrest

I went with the Hitachi NR90. It's the right angle for the stainless gun nails from Swan Secure, and works well with 8's and 16's. Doing a fence, consider stainless nails. You'll never have rust streaks down the paint.

I had a PC framer - used to call it the $250 nail starter. Ever have a tool that you were glad when it finally broke? :-) Now I have a Bostick - it's OK, and it definitely sinks the nails, but I'd say it is anything but smooth. Thought it was my imagination but then I read an article in one of the mags that backed up my notion. Hitachis are very popular around here. Never had one myself.

This comes up often and most will say Hitachi, although there are some that like Max (expensive for a DIYer) and Bostitch. I have a makita siding nailer and love it, tons of power, reliable, and depth setting is always perfect. Makita is less visible in my area though, so you don't see to many of them. The hitachi NR83A is the main nailer, they are basic but bullet proof. Look used but if you want new, check out the NV75 hitachi coil nailer, you can use it for siding (fences too) and framing. Make sure you have the nails for whatever you want available in your area. The 22 degree ones that work in the pc framers, the hitachi NR83's (stick not coil) are usually the most available. Also, check your codes, some areas the clipped head nails are not code because of earthquakes, hurricanes, etc.

Thanks for the great suggestions and advice. I updated my profile - I'm in Silver Spring MD. I think I may go with the Hitachi NR83A2. I have a 1HP/125 PSI compressor. That should do the trick no? The NR83A2 says it needs 90-120 psi.

I forgot to address the compressor. If you are only using one nailer, even a framing nailer will do fine with a pancake style or larger. My NR83A is the same as the 83A2 except it doesn't have the depth setting. I usually run my at 90 to 95psi, maybe a little lower for nailing plywood sheathing. The main thing on compressors is the cfm, that is how quickly the compressor replenishes air. Where it will just be you and only one nailer, pancake or bigger would be fine. If you get faster, then you might need to stop and let the compressor catch up for 15 to 20 seconds.

It's more about air capacity than pressure with respect to whether your current compressor will work. My Hitachi doesn't have depth adjustment so I have to adjust depth by changing working pressure. I use about 90 or 95 psi for shooting 16d (short) and about 80 psi for shooting 10d. The numbers vary according to both nail size and wood species.I looked up the Hitach NR83AA2 and found that it uses 0.088 standard cubic feet (SCF) per shot.How many nails do you want to drive? Say you're framing a wall and can shoot perhaps 30/minute in bursts. That means you need 0.088 x 30 = 2.64 scf per minute (scfm) with the Hitachi. If you want to go faster or slower, just change the multiplier. FHB recommended multiplying your requirement by 1.25 to add margin. So . hmmm, they seem to have used the same numbers as me . so they say to increase the requirement from 2.64 to 3.3 scfm.Look at the rating plate on your current compressor to see if it meets roughly the capacity you need for your system to keep up with you. A small pancake seems a little marginal keeping up with my rate but I think there are higher capacity ones that would. Personally, I don't mind waiting a few seconds -- now and then. But it's no fun to routinely pause while holding alignment.

Thanks for doing the math for me. I would not have known to look at it that way. My current compressor will provide 2.68 @ 90ps so, considering I am not particularly fast, it should do the trick. I think I'm going to rent for the fence project this week and then reevaluate. But it sounds like there are alot of Hitatchi fans on the board.Thanks everyone!

No, stainless is a high quality item. Too expensive for the big boxes. I get mine from: http://www.swansecure.com -- J.S.

Home depot carries some stainless nails here. Id just use galvanized if its a pressure treated fence. Done miles of them and never had problems with galv. on pressure treated pine. The hitachi coil is probably the most versatile nailer I have and would be my choice but for a diy like yourself id go with an inexpensive stick nailer that you can get nails for in whatever store you usually shop at. Check to see what has the best selection of nails available for it where you shop and buy that one. Might not be the best nailer but for diy use any of them will work fine.

Actually, I believe SS is especially recommended with pressure treated lumber. The new (post-2004) pressure treated lumber has much higher copper loading than earlier arsenic/copper PT lumber. When wet, the copper in the lumber undergoes a galvanic (redox) reaction with zinc and then the bare mild steel. It eats away at most galvanized nails. I understand you need to use SS or "triple galvanized" fittings and fasteners with the new PT lumber.But regardless of what sort of lumber Friar95 is using here, I wouldn't personally invest in stainless steel nails for a fence. They are bloody awful expensive. And in a fence, the fasteners all stay visible and replaceable. I built my fence with galvanized nails 20 years ago. Even now, in the misty, rainy northwest, there is only minor zinc streaking and it pretty much blends in with the grayed out cedar boards. The fence is almost due for replacement after one more round of replacing a couple rotted fenceposts, so they've held up pretty well for nearly the life of the structure.Even with PT, heck- you could build it with galvanized nails and then if you have a couple of nails fail in 10 or 15 years, go shoot the whole thing with new nails and still be dollars ahead.--just my cheapness showing through.

Everything I have seen says hot dipped galv. is approved for acq or the new pt lumber. As we both said , he is talking about a fence here any way. I wouldnt personally use stainless nails on a pressure treated fence. I havent personally seen a problem with hot dipped nails on acq lumber here even in salt water use on piers. They do recommend stainless in a salt water environment but people here dont want to pay for it anyway. Of course every pier i ever built was washed away in Katrina so I guess Ill never know how those nails would have lasted long term. They all washed away no matter what they were built with. As far as the weight of a coil nailer when full I see no real difference. I use one for siding and fencing for the smaller shank nails they can use. I use a coil for decking for the increased capacity it will hold. Personally I hate loading a coil gun so I use my stick nailers, max or duo fast, unless I am doing something I specifically need the coil nailer for.

It depends on the look of the fence. A neighbor has one that's painted white -- with big orange rust streaks downward from every nail head. Sure, stainless nails are more expensive than galvies. But labor is by far the biggest expense. It takes exactly the same effort to shoot either kind of nail. The upcharge for stainless nails might be a couple percent on the bottom line. Paying a little more for good materials is a wiser use of the big bucks you pay to have the work done. -- J.S.

If its rusting through the paint that badly he probably didnt use galv. or hot dipped galv. nails. Ive never had galv. nails show rust streaks through paint on a fence. Labor on an average 6 foot tall treated pine privacy fence is about 40 percent of my cost. Stainless nails average me three times the cost of quality galv nails. The numbers work out to about 3.5 percent added cost on an average fence. It all adds up. Sometimes its worth it sometimes its not. I just hate for people to make blanket statements like "make sure to use stainless nails" when thats not true.

I've had the zinc chip off the heads of galvies from the impact of driving them. So, they're protected everywhere except where you need it. Given a choice of a $1000 fence with rust stains and a $1035 fence without rust stains, I'd sure go for the extra cost. The OP should make his own decision on that, we can just recommend. -- J.S.

"I just hate for people to make blanket statements like "make sure to use stainless nails" when thats not true." The hot dipped galv is just a coating. When you hit the nail with either a hammer or the driver of a nail gun, it chips cracks the coating. Once that coating is cracked, you'll be open for rusting. Also galv very often stain wood. Not to spend an extra $60 for stainless is taking the cheap way out and really only saving a small amount while risking much much more. You know you will not have a problem with SS, why take the risk.

Why take the risk? Because from what I see its not a risk. I drive more nails in some days than the original poster will probably drive in a year so I just wanted to make sure he is not misled by false information. Now he can decide for himself before he buys a 350 dollar box of nails for a fence. I like quality tools as much as anybody but a 200 dollar nailer and a 100 dollar box of galv. nails will build a lot for an occasional user like the original poster. Use what you want but the simple fact is every fence doesnt warrant stainless steel nails. Anyway, i guess hes got more info than he wanted now. Good night.

$350 for a box of SS and $100 for galv, where are you? I'm in MA and a box of 3600 8d galv ring shank coils are $35 and a box of stainless are $98 for the plastic coils.

I guess you need to ship me some nails then. My coils are around 4800 per box. 95 dollars for hot dip and 310 for stainless. After 9 percent tax my prices were pretty close. I am in Alabama. If you can get stainless nails that cheap you better rent a truck and drive them down to resell. Better money than carpentry and a lot less sweat.

Give these guys a call, they will ship nails. If you are paying that much, even with shipping charges, it might be cheaper. SS are not heavy, not having the 9% sales tax might cover the shippping alone. http://www.nhtooloutlet.com/

As to which gun - Amazon has a couple of amazing deals right now on some Makita stick framers that work out to about $230 or so and come with either a 15amp circ saw or a Makita Hypoid saw. That makes the nailer about $100 or so - regardless of preference - that's a deal that cannot be beat.Check out their tool clearance and you can also use the June 10% coupon.JT

If your going to rent a nail gun, rent a siding nailer and get the coils at either l local lumber yard, any of the larger ones contractors use would have them or you could try this company http://www.abcsupply.com/contact/statelistingexec.asp?strState=MD. ABC is a supply house for contractors only but if you call and talk to someone, they probably sell you a box as a cash sale. If you rent a nailer, make sure you know what nailer you are renting, have the full number i.e. Makita siding nailer AN 611 or Hitachi siding nailer NV75?? I believe all the coil siding nailers use the same nails, 15 degree coils but some nailers use certain nails that others will not accept. I wouldn't use a framing nailer for a fence, its heavy and if your not use to it, the balance, power etc might be a PITA. Also, the nails are usually more money than siding, especially SS. Another benefit to the siding nailers is most have a single shoot mode that is safer and easier for new users, and they are lighter. A 3600 count box of galv coils for a siding nailer is about $35 here (MA) and SS are about $98. The bostitch, Makita, hitachi and max nailers all use the same coils. If you rent from HD, they rent bostitch in my area and probably yours. I think they may have SS coils there, if not they may have galv. The price will be more than the lumber yards and supply houses and often the quality is lesser. Like someone else mentioned, if your using pressure treated, you could go with hot dipped galv. If your using cedar, most of here is cedar, or another nicer wood, I would use stainless. If you use galv on cedar it will bleed onto the wood and look poorly in a few years. Basically for $50 extra you get the best and right way to do it.

"I wouldn't use a framing nailer for a fence, its heavy and if your not use to it, the balance, power etc might be a PITA."Dumb question here -- doesn't the extra weight in the coil magazine of the siding nailer more than make up for the additional weight of the framing nailer motor? That's one reason I went with the stick magazine in my Hitachi framer (that and it being a screaming deal when bundled with the compressor).I don't mean to hijack this thread, but I'm about to either spring for a siding nailer myself or choose to stick with my framer for the siding on my house.

For some reason, hitachi doesn't list their siding nailer on thier website. If you have the compressor/framer deal, I believe that is hitachi's standard nailer, the NR83A. The weight listing on that are 8.6 lbs. While their coil framing/siding nailer which is a little bigger and heavier than their standard sider is listed at 5.5 lbs. That three pounds is a lot of weight. Also I think the balance is better on the coil guns, everything is compact. If your looking for a siding gun, I have the makita AN 611 and like it a lot. I bought that off Ebay for $260 used once, not one scratch. I used a beat up hitachi sider a few times and didn't like it that much, others do. The max is also suppose to be good but its pricey and have heard its tough to get it serviced and parts. The hitachi framer/sider has a good rep but enough power for LVL's and everyday heavy framing work. http://www.hitachi-koki.com/powertools/products/air/nr83a2/nr83a2.html http://www.hitachi-koki.com/powertools/products/air/nv75ag/nv75ag.html

Yeah, and the nails are quite a bit cheaper too because of the smaller diameter -- I checked today. It think something like 0.091 vs. 0.131. I've decided to go with the Hitachi sider. NV65-something,something. Thanks.

Hitachi makes very good guns, mostly basic, no frills but they just work and last. Where you don't have a framer, check on the NV75AG? It is the same basically but it will also do moderate framing and your only adding a little weight. If you don't have a framer, this would give you one with the sider.

Same gun I have your going to love it, first box I bought were smooth shank, however you can get rings.

Which shank do you use for fibercement? I have heard both ways, either one makes sense. Rings hold too hard for future repairs, and can cause blowout on backside, smooth wont hold down good enough etc. I'm leaning towards smooth, they hold pretty tight. Just wonder if rings are better. About the only siding that blows off here is vinyl and aluminum. Even houses hit by tornados usually have beat up siding left on the remains of the house.

The job I did I used smooth, that was 3 yrs. ago customer hasn't called with any problems, so I assume everthing is fine. And if it wasn't I know for sure I would be getting a call.

Had a siding crew that used galv roofing nails, they worked fine. Right now I'm using 8d galv rings. The siding is against the house when your nailing it, so theres no blow out problems. On the few areas where you are not nailing into studs, I think the rings will hold better.

You'll just be flushing money straight down the dunny if you do that. Don't rent one, get the hitachi today.

I prefer the hitachi coil framing nailer.If you aren't doing a huge project you may only have to reload two times in a day.The company I work for has a bunch of paslode stick nailers, but I use my own guns just because I like them so much!!

Max coil nailer CN890 or 980. think it's 890 quality gun, shoots 16d framing nails down to shorter ring shanks for siding, also sheathing nails witch can be used for fence too look into stainless nails, but at least galvanized look for a builders hardware type place or contractors equip. that sells generic brands of nails, best shot 4 good price on stainless Max gun has safety switch on handle, swivel connector, inner debris screen which self cleand when airline is disconnected uses same coils as Stanley guns, so lot of availability, lots of less expensive generic nails avail

The framer I use is the Senco fullhead, it must be 10 plus years old by now looks brand new. I used it to frame out my basement remodel and for work on occasion, but I'm a finish man so not much need for it. Have also heard good reviews on the Hitachi a lot of the framers use them seem to be bullet proof. No first hand knowledge of the Max gun but some good reviews on it also. Just make sure the gun shoots full roundhead nails (most do now) most codes now call for full head nails not clipped. Jeff

friar, I framed for several years and am now a general contractor and still use my guns a lot. I use the paslode powermaster plus. It is dependable, well balanced and can be serviced in almost any town. They can shoot clipped or full round head nails and have the option of getting the sequential trip trigger. They are a little more spendy but I believe that you get what you pay for. Buy one and use it to do your projects then sell it on ebay.

Tools of the Trade magazine did a rundown on nailers just a couple of months ago, I think it was. I wasn't in the market for one so I did not keep that edition, but you can probably find out online.

For remodelling and old house, you might want to consider getting a palm nailer. Makes driving nails in tight places a sight easier when you don't really have room to swing a framing hammer or get the framing gun in.

I'd also invest in a cordless drill, predrill 75% holes before nailing. That old lumber is very dry and prone to splitting. In my experience (75 yo house), nail splits are how lumber fails.You can get the extra long drill bits at McFeelys.

I have a Bostitch full head framer that converts to an N-10(Tiko) nailer. It is great for building decks. It runs about $200. For finish and brad nailers I would highly recommend Makita, mine never let me down.

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