Iggwilv the Witch Queen is a prominent figure in the world of Dungeons and Dragons, particularly in the fifth edition. She is a powerful and enigmatic character who has played a significant role in various campaigns and storylines. Iggwilv, also known as Tasha and Natasha, is described as a legendary witch, demonologist, and power-hungry sorceress. She is believed to be a member of the Oerthian Circle of Eight, an elite group of spellcasters who wield immense magical abilities. One of Iggwilv's notable accomplishments is her authorship of the infamous "Demonomicon," a tome that delves into the knowledge and secrets of demons. This book has become a vital source of information for both Dungeon Masters and players wanting to learn more about the darker aspects of the D&D universe.

Hitachi Magic Wand Teardown

This is the Hitachi with a screw taken just a bit out, showing how the disassembly starts. Phillips head screw.

Here is a closeup of that screw:

Here is what it looks like with the top plastic part removed:

Here is a closeup of the motor. It’s a DC motor designed to run at over 100V!

The front of the motor has this plastic fan/coupling shaft combination, shown here assembled:

Here is a close up of the circuit board. The switch is soldered directly into this, and comes in from the back. Three positions are off, half wave rectify, and full wave rectify. A single diode does the half wave, and the full wave is a monolithic device to the far left here, the DB157S bridge rectifier.

This is the back end of the motor, showing how the wires are soldered on. I broke those by hand fairly easily to go to the next step.

Here is the rotor removed, showing the high mu materials wrapped in many coils, as well as the DC contacts on the right. So complicated.

Here is a closeup of the weight which does the actual work to vibrate the head: It’s compared to a US 1 cent coin for scale.

Here’s the whole assembly, showing the coupling spring which transmits torque to the head(separate from the main Head Spring).

Here is one of the two ball bearings, with another US penny for size. It’s a large, high quality ball bearing, although it has a fair amount of friction.

main head spring and assembly.

Closeup cutaway of the head showing the mass, as well as the bearings with their rubber damping covers.That plastic the head is made out of is very hard and stiff, I think it is ABS maybe.

The soft head is removed by hand. You can see foam inside, showing how sound is damped there, although also part of what probably gets hot during long use of the wand.

The contacts on the stator which connect to the coil are made from graphite, pushed into a spring loaded brass cavity in the motor base. I was able to smash it up with the heads of my DVM.

Here are the spring cavities where the graphite electrodes go:

motor base assembly zoomed out a bit:

here are the stator permanent magnets: clearly not rare earth.

another shot of the coils that do the work:

and a closeup of how the shaft with a flat drives the hole with a flat in the fan/shaft:

To find the wire gauge, I wrap a bunch of turns and see that if fully compressed it would be about 2 mm:

With them spaced out I can tell it’s about 17 turns:c

Now if we know it’s 17 turns in 2 mm, that means the diameter should be .118 mm, and looking at the AWG chart here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge and see that that’s about a 37 AWG wire, which means it’s about 1.7 ohms/meter. Now I want to measure R to see how long each coil is and what the current is. This photo shows how I used the leads on the ohm meter to measure that:

I did a few measurements and there was some spread, but basically about 90 ohms was typical for all of them. So the coil is 90/1.7 = about 50 meters.

To measure the magnetic field of the magnet on the stator I used an android phone. I think this proves that I do in fact want Hall sensors in addition to the phone, because this is a very clumsy way to measure B(r) with any consistency.

biggest field I was able to measure was about 3.5 mT. My guess is that’s way small, but it’s hard to say.

Hitachi magic wand repair

Best toy ever made..Next to a John Deer LoL And someone made a speed controller finally too.

memma

Virgin

Yes, although the speed control gets some questionable reviews, and some seem to suggest that the motor in the hitachi wand is brushless. I'm trying to build a speed controller of my own, and knowing the type of the motor is fundamental to the design. Can anyone tell me?

@SweetErica: Well let me know when your Hubby gets round to disecting the wand. I'd like to design my own speed control, but knowing the voltage and current direction (AC or DC) is important for the design.

@temp256: That schematic (currently a dead link to tinypic) would be priceless.

OnceFuturePoly

Really Experienced

Magic Wand R&R and PoP

nb: This is all based on a 2 yr old (apparently) genuine Hitachi MW which I own.

1. Look down the shaft into the handle of the unit. Flex the head aside to remove the screw, which connects the ring to the base (collar) of the head.

2. Pry ring up and off of the handle. Inside the ring are 3 cutouts that can be hooked.

3. Remove the screw 2" (5cm) from the cord end of the handle (opposite side from the switch).

4. Separate the two handle halves. The side without the switch may be removed leaving the motor and head-collar attached to the switch side.

5. The motor may be removed by lifting the side away from the head and sliding it down.

6. The collar of the head may be pried out of the handle and slid off the white motor fan shaft.

Restoration:

a) When attaching head and motor, note that the silver spring has an extension which fits into the slot on the white plastic fan shaft.

b) After placing head into handle, note position of screw hole in the head collar for re-attaching the ring.

c) Reverse disassembly steps.

Vibration is obtained by rotating an eccentric (off balance) weight inside the head.

The padded cover may be removed by prying the cover edge away from the head all around at the base of the head. Two screws (shellacked) and tape join the two metal halves of the head base. Opening them exposes the rotating shaft and weight.

The head connects to a collar at the handle via a hollow rubber coated spring, through which an inner spring shaft rotates. Thus the head can flex at any angle.

The motor is part "e52382-d-pc", a DC motor used in small appliances. It is not brush-less, and should be run at a constant voltage.

Rheostatic (light dimmer) controls should not be used because the motor will "stumble" when the input voltage is reduced beyond design limits. A pulse shaping control is required for operation at significantly lower speed.​

The motor appears to be "permanently" lubricated, and maintenance is never required.

The circuitry:

The power switch is three position, off, high, and low. The low terminal is connected to the high terminal through a diode so that the low setting delivers only 1/2 of the AC current wave form, clipping the negative going portion.

The power leads are connected to the motor through a full wave rectifier bridge. This inverts the negative AC pulses into positive pulses, and combines them with the positive pulses for 120 hertz pulsed DC. When the input wave form is clipped (power switch at low setting), no negative pulses are available to the bridge, so the output is only 60 hertz pulsed DC.

While the two pulse rates (60 & 120) give the motor different speeds, the speed it not proportional to the pulse rate due to mechanical load. Low speed is estimated to be 5000 rpm, and high speed only increases to an estimated 6000 rpm.​

temp256

Literotica Guru

Sorry I haven't been around lately. I updated the images. They're hosted on the literotica forum servers now, so hopefully they'll stick around this time.

@memma, there is no transformer. The motor runs on rectified mains voltage. It's a brushed DC motor, which runs on the pulsed DC from the bridge rectifier.

The best way to build a speed controller is to use a triac circuit. They're quite simple, and are often used to control brushed motors. I've built a couple in the past, but I really have no need to reduce the speed of my wand. If anything I want more power.

Speaking of which, a simple modification can provide a slight increase in power. Simply connect a large capacitor in parallel with the motor. This will reduce the rippled output of the bridge rectifier, and give a slight increase in power.

Also, I highly suggest adding a snubber circuit across the motor. This will help reduce RF interference. It's quite annoying when the wand interferes with a wireless mouse.

JustaSCOUNDREL

Literotica Guru

Guy thing? You're talking to a girl who has a subscription to Maxim. Maxim semiconductor.

I'll post some pics later. It's an interesting, but cheap design.

Never mind a minor case of cranial rectal inversion. (LOL)

temp256

Literotica Guru

JustaSCOUNDREL

Literotica Guru

Sorry it was my fault. I didn't bother to look at the original post date. I will look though.

From hat you said it is a cheep and lazy design. I will say the Japanese do business differently than we do here. They have "business relationships " with certain companies with whom they keep going for years. So they may be getting the parts at a relatively deep discounts. So they may be able to make it for say $15 and sell the thing here for $50+.

From your description it does sound like an AC motor with a rheostat (Pot) May work longer and bettor but you would not need to replace it in a few months ether.

Mike - Old navy Electronics Technician.

temp256

Literotica Guru

Potentiometes are a terrible way to drive AC motors. The proper way is to use a variable frequency drive circuit. If you're going to make one of those, you might as well go all the way and use a brushless DC motor instead. They're quite powerful, and far more efficient.

I really want to build a three phase vibrator now.

memma

Virgin

That's great, thank you! I know exactly what I'm up against now.

temp256

Literotica Guru

I tried to increase the power using the method I described earlier. It worked great in the lab: even low speed was faster than the normal maximum, and high speed was faster yet. So I soldered it up, and tried it again.

Bzzzzzrrrr. *pop*. Out go the lights.

It seems some idiot connected the electrolytic capacitor backwards, and blew it out. Unfortunately said idiot was me. Not a problem. I've blown up bigger capacitors than this. Once even intentionally. I'll simply replace it and try again.

*Pop*. This time I manage to trip both the circuit breaker and the GFI. Oh, and the power switch on the wand welded itself shut.

Still not a problem. I've welded power switches shut before, for bigger motors than this. They're easy enough to fix. I was starting to get suspicious at this point, so I started testing the diodes. They all read as dead shorts. In both directions.

As best as I can tell, when the capacitor failed, it shorted out. This caused high current to flow through the diodes, frying them into conducting both directions. Turning on the wand is now equivalent to sticking a paperclip in an outlet.

Fortunately, this likely means the motor was protected. Diodes are easy to replace, and I'll use better ones than the original. It's too late right now, but hopefully I can get it working again tomorrow. If not, I'll have to build a shrine for the wand--a martyr to the cause of perpetual horniness.

temp256

Literotica Guru

Well, I replaced all the diodes. I removed the old ones, and made sure the motor was still good. I soldered the new ones in place, and tested it out.

*BAM* The diodes exploded, tripping the breaker once again.

Then I realized another stupid mistake: the diodes were only rated to 20 volts. I replaced the diodes yet again, this time with a beefy 600 volt 20 amp bridge rectifier. I carefully plugged it in again.

*Whhhrrrrrr* Success! I got it working just like it was originally. Of course, this isn't what I set out to do.

I added the decoupling capacitor again, this time checking the polarity several times. It still worked, and the motor was noticeably faster. Then I added a pair of filtering capacitors to reduce electromagnetic noise. The only complaint I've had with this vibrator is it causes interference with my wireless mouse.

I put it all back together, and it still works. I haven't had a chance to test it properly, but I will in the near future.

I've included a new schematic. My modifications are in violet. The filtering capacitors are connected to the metal case of the motor via a mounting screw.

With this, my 500th post, I just became a Literotica Guru. How appropriate.

Attachments

Sir Victor

Literotica Guru

You want to be VERY careful working on line operated equipment. Line snubber caps are typically very high voltage (1 - 4KV pulse tested) so that they do not arc over during line faults, or ligtening strikes. The caps should be rated (X2, Y2 etc. rating) for use in a position like that so that they are designed to fail open or shorted as appropriate for safety reasons. Those look like common film type caps and I would not use them there. I would go across the motor rather than to the case, you do not want to encourage any line power going to any metal inside the case (when a 3 prong plug is not used) even if it is insulated.
It is actually a bit more complicated. Since you do not have a safety ground you want an X2 type of safety capacitor with it going directly across the motor, not to the case. Here is a simple discussion, you should probably read some of the more professional ones if you really want to use such a modification:
http://www.justradios.com/safetytips.html

I really cannot encourage working on line operated equipment.

mike2010fc

Really Experienced

temp256

Literotica Guru

Sir Victor, I am by no means an amateur. I've been working with electronics all my life, and I know how to handle line powered devices. I maintained proper isolation when powering up the wand.

The small capacitors are not line filters, but snubbers for the motor's back EMF. Connecting them to the case is the best way to reduce RF interference. I've seen this design used before, and it works fine. The motor case is physically isolated from any other metal parts. The air gap is larger than the gap between the power switch frame and a live wire, so there's nothing to worry about.

If the capacitors fail closed, it will be no different from the motor shorting out, or a loose wire touching. The circuit breaker will sense the short, and trip. The diodes may or may not survive, but I consider them expendable in such a scenario. A fuse would probably be a good idea if I were to redesign it, but the original doesn't have one.

I too despise planned obsolescence. I have an idea for a completely new style of vibrator I'd like to build, but I have no one to help me. If it works well, it might even be marketable.

memma

Virgin

What sort of person would you need to help you, temp256?

temp256

Literotica Guru

I need someone who can design electromagnets. The theory is simple, but I can't find a good practical guide. I can probably handle the rest of the electronics myself, but it never hurts to have someone else check it.

And of course I'll eventually be needing testers.

Sir Victor

Literotica Guru

Sir Victor, I am by no means an amateur. I've been working with electronics all my life, and I know how to handle line powered devices. I maintained proper isolation when powering up the wand.

The small capacitors are not line filters, but snubbers for the motor's back EMF. Connecting them to the case is the best way to reduce RF interference. I've seen this design used before, and it works fine. The motor case is physically isolated from any other metal parts. The air gap is larger than the gap between the power switch frame and a live wire, so there's nothing to worry about.

If the capacitors fail closed, it will be no different from the motor shorting out, or a loose wire touching. The circuit breaker will sense the short, and trip. The diodes may or may not survive, but I consider them expendable in such a scenario. A fuse would probably be a good idea if I were to redesign it, but the original doesn't have one.

I too despise planned obsolescence. I have an idea for a completely new style of vibrator I'd like to build, but I have no one to help me. If it works well, it might even be marketable.

I referred to them as line snubbers right at the start of my post; I know what they are:
" Line snubber caps are typically very high voltage"
It in fact does not matter what you call them, they are subject to line voltages and therefore should be a type of cap rated for very high pulsed voltages such as the type that I pointed out. Doing this wrong could be lethal and therefore you should not be so stubborn. It is clear that you do not want to hear any suggestions or warnings and therefore I'll just say good luck to you. More for you to read:

How To Clean Your Hitachi Magic Wand Properly

Whether you own the Hitachi Magic Wand Original, Rechargeable, Plus, or Mini, you should get into the routine of cleaning your Magic Wand after each use. Doing so keeps your massager free from germs and bacteria when not being used and while in storage. Your Magic Wand will be 'good to go' at a moments notice next time you feel the need for a relaxing all over body massage or some kinky bedroom fun.

Please remember that none of the Hitachi Magic Wand massagers are waterproof, so don't rinse your massager in water to clean it.

After years of using and selling the Hitachi Magic Wand, we found the most convenient, safest and quickest way to clean it is with a disposable moist cleaning cloth that contains a mild soap such as 'Wet Ones' or disposable moist baby wipes or similar.

A cheaper, more environmentally friendly alternative cleaning method is to mix liquid hand soap with water into a pump spray bottle, about 1 part hand soap to 5 parts water. Spray the soapy water solution directly onto a paper towel, soft cleaning cloth or sponge.

While holding the base of the Magic Wand in one hand, wipe down the massager using the other hand. Start at the top, wiping the silicone massage head, then move down towards cleaning the flexible neck, and finally the main body of the massager.

You can leave the massager to air dry, or use a clean and dry lint free cloth to wipe off any residue cleaning fluid.

Please note:

• Do not clean your Magic Wand in water. It is not waterproof.
• Do not use abrasive cleaners or pads on your Magic Wand. It may damage the finish.
• Do not use alcohol, benzene, acetone or chemical cleaners on your Magic Wand. It may damage the finish.

Cleaning your Magic Wand will only take about 1 minute after each use. It's a must do ritual that will remove any germs, bodily fluids, massage oils and personal lubricants, leaving your massager fresh and clean, ready for its next use.

This book has become a vital source of information for both Dungeon Masters and players wanting to learn more about the darker aspects of the D&D universe. As a result, Iggwilv is associated with demons and is often depicted as an antagonist who seeks to harness their powers for her nefarious purposes. In addition to her ties to demons, Iggwilv is closely connected to the infamous demon prince Graz'zt.

Legend has it that she became his consort and bore him a daughter named Iuz, who would go on to become a formidable figure in her own right. This connection to Graz'zt has raised Iggwilv's prominence and made her an integral part of campaigns centered on demon-related storylines. Iggwilv is known for her cunning and intelligence, often outsmarting her opponents and manipulating them to further her goals. Her vast knowledge of magic and her willingness to explore forbidden and dangerous powers make her both a feared enemy and a tempting ally. She is sometimes depicted as a captivating and beautiful enchantress, capable of seducing those who cross her path. While Iggwilv is primarily associated with evil and dark magic, her complexity as a character allows for various interpretations and potential story arcs. Dungeon Masters can introduce her as a main antagonist, a quest giver, or even a potential source of guidance and knowledge for desperate adventurers. The inclusion of Iggwilv in the fifth edition of Dungeons and Dragons has provided players with a rich and intriguing character to encounter and explore. Whether she is a source of terror or an opportunity for ambitious characters, Iggwilv the Witch Queen adds depth and excitement to campaigns set in the D&D universe..

Reviews for "The Lore and Legends of Iggwilv the Witch Queen in Dungeons & Dragons 5e"

1. John Doe - 1/5 - Iggwilv the witch queen 5e was a major disappointment. The adventure was poorly written and lacked coherence. The characters were underdeveloped and the plot was convoluted. It felt like the author was trying to cram too many ideas into a single campaign without fully fleshing them out. Additionally, the mechanics were unbalanced and it was difficult to gauge the appropriate challenge level for my players. Overall, I wouldn't recommend this adventure to anyone looking for a well-crafted and engaging campaign.

2. Jane Smith - 2/5 - I was really excited to try Iggwilv the witch queen 5e, but it fell short of my expectations. The story started off promising, but quickly became confusing and hard to follow. The encounters were repetitive and lacked creativity. The artwork and maps were also lackluster, and didn't provide the level of detail and immersion that I was hoping for. I also encountered several errors and inconsistencies throughout the campaign, which made it even more frustrating to run. While there were a few interesting moments, overall I found this adventure to be underwhelming and not worth the investment.

3. Robert Johnson - 2/5 - Iggwilv the witch queen 5e was a letdown for me. The pacing was off, with long stretches of monotonous travel and minimal opportunities for roleplaying or character development. The combat encounters were uninspired, and it felt like I was going through the motions rather than experiencing an exciting adventure. The world-building was also lacking, with little effort put into creating a rich and immersive setting. Additionally, the organization of the book was confusing, making it difficult to find relevant information when needed. Overall, I was disappointed with this campaign and wouldn't recommend it to others.

The Iconic Spells of Iggwilv the Witch Queen in Dungeons & Dragons 5e