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Practical magic witchcraft refers to the use of various rituals, spells, and techniques to create desired outcomes and manifest intentions. It is a form of witchcraft that focuses on using practical methods to address specific needs or goals. This type of witchcraft is often rooted in traditional folk magic and involves the use of herbs, crystals, candles, and other tools to enhance the power of spells and rituals. Practical magic witchcraft can encompass a wide range of practices and traditions, including but not limited to Wicca, Hoodoo, and folk magic. While each tradition may have its own unique practices and beliefs, they all share a common goal of using magic to influence the world around them. One of the key principles of practical magic witchcraft is the concept of working with nature and the elements.

You guys, I kind of love the Sheets.

But, such is my devotion to you that I put aside this cruel betrayal and bought the Sheets so that I could bring you this review, unbiased by my broken heart. It will disintegrate in the same way a pencil eraser does and, in the case of the Sheets, because they re thinner than the Eraser that disintegration will happen faster than with the Eraser.

One of the key principles of practical magic witchcraft is the concept of working with nature and the elements. For example, practitioners may align their spells and rituals with the phases of the moon, harnessing the lunar energy to amplify their intentions. Similarly, they may use specific herbs or crystals that correspond to certain elements or energies, such as rosemary for protection or amethyst for spiritual growth.

[Closed] Using a melamine 'magic eraser' on your PEI sheet

I've never had perfect repeatable success using just the (extremely clean) PEI spring steel sheet, prints would often curl up slightly at one or more edges or not even stick properly, so I resorted to using the Kores glue stick (even bought a pile more) which would sometimes make the print stick too hard.

But not anymore.

Yesterday I used one of those melamine 'magic eraser' sponges on the PEI spring steel sheet, carefully scrubbing in circles the entire surface, then rinsing it clean with just water & drying with a tissue.

The result? The sheet now has a fine matte surface and PLA/PETG/TPU prints stick perfectly without needing the gluestick, and they easily pop-off when flexing the (cooled) sheet. Check this out, 20x20x2 mm test prints about an hour ago, the results on the right are what I used to get, but now I get the results on the left.

Very happy with the first layer now 🙂

RE: Using a melamine 'magic eraser' on your PEI sheet

I hate to be negative, but Wikipedia has this to say:

In the early 21st century it was discovered that melamine foam is an effective abrasive cleaner. [2] The open-cell foam is microporous and its polymeric substance is very hard, so that when used for cleaning it works like extremely fine sandpaper, getting into tiny grooves and pits in the object being cleaned.

You are using a fine abrasive on your PEI. This is fine for infrequent use, but should not be used in place of simple Dawn dish soap and water for a thorough cleaning of the PEI surface. Looking at your picture, the print on the right suffers from 2 problems:

1. Your Live-Z adjustment is too low, resulting in the uneven lines on the bottom.
2. Your bed adhesion is poor, resulting in the lifted corners. This is likely caused by contamination of the PEI surface.

In other words, it looks like you're trying to compensate for a dirty bed by mashing that 1st layer into the PEI. The Magic Eraser works (destructively) by abrading away whatever gunk contaminated the PEI. Better to do that non-abrasively with dish soap and water to preserve the longevity of the PEI surface.

Here's mama's tried and true copypasta recipe for cleaning & Live-Z calibration to keep you out of trouble.

You are having bed adhesion issues. PLA should lay down cleanly on the PEI print surface and hold throughout the print. There are 2 main causes of bed adhesion issues. Even if you're dubious that these are the cause of your problems, they're 2 fundamental troubleshooting steps that you need to complete to rule out the basics:

A dirty PEI print surface. Even if you don't think this is the cause, it's always a good idea to make sure your PEI surface is clean before trying any other fixes. Take it to the kitchen sink and give it a good dunk with Dawn (original formula, no vinegar or hand softener variants) dishwashing soap or your local equivalent (e.g. Fairy in UK). Use a clean paper towel to clean it off, and another to dry it. Avoid using any sponge or cloth that has been in contact with grease. Above all else, avoid touching the PEI print surface. Once it's good and clean, you should be able to use 91%+ isopropyl alcohol between prints, 100% acetone when that fails, and another dunk when acetone fails. Worst-case, use a 3M 7445 ScotchBrite pad or equivalent to give it a very light buff, but only infrequently .

If you have not already done so, try using Jeff Jordan's "Life Adjust" procedure for calibrating your Live-Z setting. It is much easier to use and understand than the on-board routine. In general, start high (less negative) and work lower (more negative) in large increments (e.g. 0.1mm) until the filament starts to stick on its own. When it's right, you should be able to gently rub it without it coming loose. Then start lowering (more negative) the level until there are no gaps between layers. When you've got your Live-Z setting adjusted properly, you should be able to gently rub the extruded lines without dislodging them.

Try those 2 steps. If you're uncertain of the Live-Z results, post pics here of the 75x75 print bottom and you'll get quick help.

In the future, a good dunk with Dawn will restore both sides of your to like-new condition and is always a good thing to try when you encounter 1st layer problems.

If you want more detail, I've consolidated my notes on Prusa PEI adhesion, bed cleaning, and Live-Z calibration.

and miscellaneous other tech projects
He is intelligent, but not experienced. His pattern indicates two dimensional thinking. -- Spock in Star Trek: The Wrath of Khan

Another important aspect of practical magic witchcraft is the use of symbols and sigils. These symbols are often created by the practitioner and represent a specific intention or desire. They can be used in rituals or spells to focus and direct energy towards achieving that desired outcome. In addition to spells, rituals, and symbols, practical magic witchcraft often involves the use of divination tools to gain insights and guidance. Tarot cards, pendulums, and scrying mirrors are among the many tools that practitioners may use to connect with their intuition and receive messages from the divine. Overall, practical magic witchcraft is a versatile and adaptable practice that can be tailored to fit the needs and beliefs of each individual practitioner. Whether used for personal growth, healing, protection, or manifestation, this form of witchcraft offers a wide range of tools and techniques to aid in the pursuit of magical goals..

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