A magic tilt trailer parts diagram is an illustrative representation of the different components and parts that make up a magic tilt trailer. The diagram helps to visually identify the various parts and their respective locations on the trailer. The magic tilt trailer parts diagram typically includes a variety of components such as the frame, axles, springs, coupler, winch stand, rollers or bunks, lights, and wiring. These parts work together to ensure the proper functioning and operation of the magic tilt trailer. The frame is the main structural component of the trailer that provides support and stability. It is usually made of steel and serves as the foundation for the other trailer parts.

Knott Waterproof Hubs

I have a late model EZ Loader trailer. It has Knott Waterproof hubs. Did some quick googling and apparently these are "no maintenance" and maker says to not add bearing buddies. Anyone have experience with how these hold up?

gatorglenn

Well-known member

I don't, but I am curious as to why no buddy hubs.

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CedarRiverScooter

Well-known member

They are a sealed bearing. No practical way to add grease.

This thread suggests they are not very reliable. You may want to change to std tapered bearing hubs.

LDUBS

Well-known member

This is not encouraging. Looks like I have a little time before I might have to take some action.

Gator, not sure why they (the manufacturer) say not to use bearing buddies other than this is supposed to be a sealed system. Truth be told, I know next to nothing about the whole subject involving bearings, spindles, hubs, etc. Looks like I will be getting an education soon. Haha.

mbweimar

Well-known member

I hope it's "Knott" too late but. STAY AWAY. I bought a Magic Tilt trailer new in 2013 and it came with these hubs. I used the trailer exclusively in saltwater and after the first year I went to repack the bearings. I disassembled the hubs and removed the bearing, which is like an inner and outer bearing in one single race. if that makes sense. I googled the numbers on the bearing and couldn't find any matches. Ended up calling the dealer and getting a whole new torsion axle under warranty. The new axle had normal tapered spindles luckily.

skipper123

Well-known member

One reason not to use bearing buddies is they pressurize the hub, hub has a rear seal. What happens to the rear seal when you put pressure on the hub ? Ever wonder why you have grease on the back side of your wheels when bearing buddies I mean killers is used. The pressure blows out the seal and wala grease everywhere. That's not the bad part, that seal also keeps water out, YIKES I don't know who invented the easy lube axel with the grease fitting in the end of the axel but that's the cats meow. Its the one that has a little rubber plug in the dust cap that you just pull out and pump grease into the end of the axel which flows out between the bearings and back to the dust cap to tell you its full with out pressure. No place for water because the hub is full of grease and the seal stays intact. Now that's some good engineering right there and no bearing killers needed.

gatorglenn

Well-known member

Well the hubs your referencing is from Tracker. Are at least there the ones they have been using for many years. I have found with my trailer hubs, that the rubber plug on the end. Will get old and shrink are crack. This will sling grease out and let water in.

So what I do, and a few other guys I know. And a few guys on another site does. Some just buy new plugs every year so they stay tight and good. Or as I do. 2, after putting new grease in with the zerk until old grease is pushed out and new grease is showing. I take the zerk out. And put a Buddy Hub on. Then put just enough grease in it to take the air out, usually just one pump of the gun. This totally keeps the water out and the grease in. You're not putting any force on the seals. Doing this I have gone to seasons before taking the hubs off. And no water in the grease looks brand-new still. Yes it's a little more work but like I say, I don't have to touch them very often. The easier path would be just to make sure those rubber plugs are new every season so that they stay tight and not dry rotted.

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richg99

Well-known member

Darn. this is such a great site! Thanks, Gator Glen et al.

" The easier path would be just to make sure those rubber plugs are new every season so that they stay tight and not dry rotted."

I have those types of hubs. I just bought a new rubber cap since the old one crumbled when I went to put grease in. I did buy an extra cap but never thought about a replacement system every year. I'll own a handful of them now.

thanks again, richg99

p.s. just made a note to do this job on my birthday, every year!

LDUBS

Well-known member

Now I am confused, which is kind of my normal state I guess.

GatorGlen and Rich, I think you are referring to something different than the Knott Waterproof hubs I have. As far as I can tell there is no rubber plug. Am I missing something?

richg99

Well-known member

Sorry if I added to the confusion.

I believe that the hubs that GatorGlen referred to are called EZHubs.

They are NOT Knott hubs.

I found this video. They appear to be the ones that are on my spindles.
https://www.sltrailers.com/site/mobile?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.sltrailers.com%2FWhat_are_EZ_Lube_Hubs_.html%3Fgclid%3DCjwKEAjw1PPJBRDq9dGHivbXmhcSJAATZd_BCIeQX56Ldyp-t9m6m6NIPFm_hMCBAx4_z8-5wB8sgxoCRC3w_wcB#2618

gatorglenn

Well-known member

Sorry, yes the hubs me and skipper 123 where referring to are the ones in richg99 video

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LDUBS

Well-known member

user 32893

New member

Well the hubs your referencing is from Tracker. Are at least there the ones they have been using for many years. I have found with my trailer hubs, that the rubber plug on the end. Will get old and shrink are crack. This will sling grease out and let water in.

So what I do, and a few other guys I know. And a few guys on another site does. Some just buy new plugs every year so they stay tight and good. Or as I do. 2, after putting new grease in with the zerk until old grease is pushed out and new grease is showing. I take the zerk out. And put a Buddy Hub on. Then put just enough grease in it to take the air out, usually just one pump of the gun. This totally keeps the water out and the grease in. You're not putting any force on the seals. Doing this I have gone to seasons before taking the hubs off. And no water in the grease looks brand-new still. Yes it's a little more work but like I say, I don't have to touch them very often. The easier path would be just to make sure those rubber plugs are new every season so that they stay tight and not dry rotted.

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Hi guys, I've worked on most all brands of trailers over the last 10 years. The only problem with "Bearing Buddy's" is the bad information you find on their, and other's, website(s). You only need to put 1 to 2 pumps of grease into the Bearing Buddy about every 6 months. This does not create pressure on the grease seal. After about 3 years of doing this you will most likely see the spring in the Bearing Buddy begin to compress. When this begins to happen the cavity inside the hub has become full, and pressure is most definitely beginning to be exerted on the seal. When you first see the spring begin to compress you want to remove the Bearing Buddy, remove the hub, and clean all parts therein, including the bearings. Repack the bearings, using a tool, mine is like a canister, that squeezes fresh grease into, through, and out the Bearing. Apply clean grease to the spindle and the inside of the hub. Put it all back together and begin the 2 pump method all over again. Unfortunately, most sites, including, Bearing Buddy's, tell you to pump grease into the Bearing Buddy until it begins to compress and repeat this process, over and over again. Problem being, as others have mentioned, is that pressure IS being created and the only place for all this excess grease to go is out the back, through the grease seal. And trouble begins. If you do not want to undertake the above cleaning process, find a good marina near you and they should be able to direct you to a reputable trailer service repair shop.

Setting up a Magic tilt trailer

I have recently acquired a 17.5 ft duracraft on a Magic tilt trailer. The trailer has a combination of 3 keel rollers and 2 6ft 2X4 bunks. As it sits now the majority of the weight is on the rollers except at the stern where it looks like the bunks take the weight. Approximately the 4ft of the bunk towards the bow do not touch the hull while the boat is trailered. I am going to replace the bunks and rollers and wanted to make sure I got it set up correctly and safely. So how is the weight supposed to be distributed? Thank you for the help

Bondo

Moderator

Re: Setting up a Magic tilt trailer

I have recently acquired a 17.5 ft duracraft on a Magic tilt trailer. The trailer has a combination of 3 keel rollers and 2 6ft 2X4 bunks. As it sits now the majority of the weight is on the rollers except at the stern where it looks like the bunks take the weight. Approximately the 4ft of the bunk towards the bow do not touch the hull while the boat is trailered. I am going to replace the bunks and rollers and wanted to make sure I got it set up correctly and safely. So how is the weight supposed to be distributed? Thank you for the help

Ayuh. Welcome Aboard.
Basically, the rollers are to center, 'n help move the boat to it's sittin' spot, or Off the wagon, dependin' on which way yer goin'.

The Majority of the weight of the hull should be restin' on the Bunks.

SPORTSMAN BOATS WELDED BUNK TRAILERS

*Aluminum I-Beam Frame*
*Aluminum Tube Cross Members*
*Torsion "V" Axles With Vortex Hubs*
*Removable Spindle*
*Swivel Inside Bunks*
*Galvanized U-Bolts & Hardware*
*Aluminum Rims with Balanced Radial Tires*
*Aluminum Diamond Plate Fenders*
*Welded 2X6 Double Bunks*
*Inside Bunks Beveled & Swivel*
*Galvanized PVC Guides*
*LED Lights / Heat Shrink Connections*
*Tongue Jack & Wheel (Drop Foot Jack on 10,000 lb Capacity and Larger)*

Optional Equipment & Upgrades

* Electric Over Hydraulic Brakes*
*Side Mount Spare Tire Carrier*
*Side "Vortex" Hub Spare Tire Carrier*
*Spare Tire & Wheel*
*Stainless Acorn Lug Nuts*

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It is usually made of steel and serves as the foundation for the other trailer parts. The axles are responsible for supporting the weight of the trailer and its load. They are connected to the frame and typically include bearings, hubs, and brakes.

Springs are a part of the suspension system and help to absorb shocks and bumps during tow. They connect the axles to the frame and contribute to a smoother ride. The coupler is the connection point between the trailer and the towing vehicle. It allows for easy hitching and unhitching of the trailer. The winch stand is located at the front of the trailer and houses the winch, which is used to load and unload boats or other heavy items onto the trailer. Rollers or bunks are used to support and guide the boat onto the trailer. They can be adjusted to accommodate different boat sizes and shapes. Lights and wiring are essential for ensuring visibility and safety while towing. The lights include taillights, brake lights, and turn signals, which are connected to the trailer's electrical system. The magic tilt trailer parts diagram serves as a useful reference for trailer owners, mechanics, and technicians. It helps in identifying and locating specific parts for maintenance, repair, or replacement. By understanding the different components and their functions, trailer owners can ensure the proper functioning and longevity of their magic tilt trailers..

Reviews for "Tips for Maintaining and Upgrading Magic Tilt Trailer Winches: A Parts Diagram Perspective"

1. Alex - 1-star rating - I was extremely disappointed with the Magic tilt trailer parts diagram. It was poorly organized and difficult to understand. The diagrams were confusing and didn't provide enough information. I ended up having to contact customer support for further clarification, which was a hassle. Overall, I would not recommend this product to anyone in need of a clear and helpful parts diagram.

2. Emily - 2-star rating - The Magic tilt trailer parts diagram left much to be desired. The quality of the diagrams was subpar and it was difficult to identify the specific parts I needed. The lack of labels and clear instructions made it frustrating to use. I had to spend extra time researching online and consulting other resources to figure out the correct parts. It was a waste of my time and money.

3. Ethan - 1-star rating - The Magic tilt trailer parts diagram was a complete waste of money. The diagrams were blurry and incomplete, making it nearly impossible to identify the correct parts. The product description promised a comprehensive and detailed diagram, but it fell short of expectations. It was a frustrating experience, and I would not recommend purchasing this product.

4. Olivia - 2-star rating - I was disappointed with the Magic tilt trailer parts diagram. The diagrams were outdated and did not accurately reflect the current parts available. This caused confusion and delays in finding the correct parts for my trailer. Additionally, the diagram lacked clear instructions, making it difficult to navigate and understand. I would suggest looking for a more up-to-date and user-friendly parts diagram from a different brand.

5. Matthew - 1-star rating - The Magic tilt trailer parts diagram was a complete letdown. The diagrams were poorly designed and did not provide enough detail. I struggled to find the specific parts I needed and ended up wasting time and money on incorrect parts. The lack of clear labeling and instructions made the process frustrating and unnecessarily complicated. I would not recommend this product to anyone in need of a reliable and accurate parts diagram.

How to Identify and Replace Magic Tilt Trailer Wheel Bearings: A Parts Diagram Perspective