Maintaining Blue Magic Hair: Dos and Don'ts

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Oct 23, 2021 #5 2021-10-23T11:58

It s likely that they want the grade 5 bolts in there so that the mounting flange of the tire holder acts as a flitch plate to offset the effect of drilling the holes in the i-beam. It s likely that they want the grade 5 bolts in there so that the mounting flange of the tire holder acts as a flitch plate to offset the effect of drilling the holes in the i-beam.

Mafic tilt trailwr sprei tire nmout

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Spare Tire Holder Suggestions

I have a 2014 21’ Key West Bay Reef that I would like to attach 2 spares to my Magic Tilt dual axle trailer. Any suggestions?


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156 60 Contributing Member 156 60

Oct 22, 2021 #2 2021-10-22T17:41

I used one of these on my single axle Magic Tilt. I had to add some spacers under it to get it fit on my trailer, which has four inch tall I-beams. If your I-beams are at least five inches tall it should fit fine.
https://www.easternmarine.com/aluminum-i-beam-spare-tire-carrier-86064-0

You might want to consider using one of the tire mounts that uses a bearing hub instead of lug nuts to mount the spare. You'll have a spare hub in case of a bearing failure, and you won't need a lug wrench to change the tire, just a pair of pliers.

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Oct 22, 2021 #3 2021-10-22T19:08

So you had to drill into trailer then correct?


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Oct 23, 2021 #4 2021-10-23T00:59

Snooktime wrote: ↑ Oct 22, 2021 So you had to drill into trailer then correct?

Yes, you have to drill four 1/2 inch holes in the web. (The instructions say 5/8, but if you drill them accurately half inch works.) I put mine close to the front end of the beam where it shouldn't affect the trailer's strength. The mount comes with grade 5 steel bolts; I replaced mine with 304 stainless. They want you to put a layer of duct tape between the galvanized mount and aluminum beam to prevent galvanic action, which I did.

6,743 2,764 Moderator 6,743 2,764

Oct 23, 2021 #5 2021-10-23T11:58

Mark B wrote: ↑ Oct 23, 2021 Snooktime wrote: ↑ Oct 22, 2021 So you had to drill into trailer then correct?

Yes, you have to drill four 1/2 inch holes in the web. (The instructions say 5/8, but if you drill them accurately half inch works.) I put mine close to the front end of the beam where it shouldn't affect the trailer's strength. The mount comes with grade 5 steel bolts; I replaced mine with 304 stainless. They want you to put a layer of duct tape between the galvanized mount and aluminum beam to prevent galvanic action, which I did.

You might want to re-think the stainless bolts. It's likely that they want the grade 5 bolts in there so that the mounting flange of the tire holder acts as a flitch plate to offset the effect of drilling the holes in the i-beam. How critical, I cannot say without some calculations. But I see that a lot with trailer hardware. Quite a few parts on aluminum trailers use galvanized steel and galvanized grade 5 or grade 8 bolts.

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Oct 23, 2021 #6 2021-10-23T12:27

This is the one I’m thinking about.


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Oct 23, 2021 #7 2021-10-23T23:16

Snooktime wrote: ↑ Oct 23, 2021 This is the one I’m thinking about.
https://store.propridehitch.com/spare-t . igQAvD_BwE

That will work if your trailer tongue is long enough. Mine isn't. Note that the location of the spare will affect how sharp you can jackknife the trailer.

The Tie Down Engineering stuff is well made. Hot-dipped galvanized, not just electroplated.

Oct 23, 2021 #8 2021-10-23T23:45

s219 wrote: ↑ Oct 23, 2021

You might want to re-think the stainless bolts. It's likely that they want the grade 5 bolts in there so that the mounting flange of the tire holder acts as a flitch plate to offset the effect of drilling the holes in the i-beam. How critical, I cannot say without some calculations. But I see that a lot with trailer hardware. Quite a few parts on aluminum trailers use galvanized steel and galvanized grade 5 or grade 8 bolts.

I can't see how slightly stronger bolts will make the I-beam any stronger. At any rate, I placed the mount in a low-stress area, near the end of the beam and where it's supported by the galvanized trailer tongue.

6,743 2,764 Moderator 6,743 2,764

Oct 24, 2021 #9 2021-10-24T00:33

Mark B wrote: ↑ Oct 23, 2021 s219 wrote: ↑ Oct 23, 2021

You might want to re-think the stainless bolts. It's likely that they want the grade 5 bolts in there so that the mounting flange of the tire holder acts as a flitch plate to offset the effect of drilling the holes in the i-beam. How critical, I cannot say without some calculations. But I see that a lot with trailer hardware. Quite a few parts on aluminum trailers use galvanized steel and galvanized grade 5 or grade 8 bolts.

I can't see how slightly stronger bolts will make the I-beam any stronger. At any rate, I placed the mount in a low-stress area, near the end of the beam and where it's supported by the galvanized trailer tongue.

It's how the loads in the i-beam transfer to the plate on the tire holder -- the plate becomes a reinforcement to offset the weakening of the i-beam from holes. Many different bits of trailer hardware are designed to do this. It will be dependent on the strength of the bolts to transfer the load. May not matter in this case, but that is likely why grade 5 bolts were specified for something as simple as a tire holder. SS bolts are going to be like rubber in comparison.

Yes, you have to drill four 1/2 inch holes in the web. (The instructions say 5/8, but if you drill them accurately half inch works.) I put mine close to the front end of the beam where it shouldn't affect the trailer's strength. The mount comes with grade 5 steel bolts; I replaced mine with 304 stainless. They want you to put a layer of duct tape between the galvanized mount and aluminum beam to prevent galvanic action, which I did.
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