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Smoothing out Model Magic

I'm using model magic to cover a large section of a weapon prop (formboard/and wood is the base) but I'm having trouble smoothing out the clay so that it doesn't have bumps/valleys. I tried using a roller pin the smooth out the clay, but there are still places that are not even.

After the clay drys, should I just go back and sand it down and fill in with more model magic until it is a smooth surface?

Also, should I wait until the clay is all smooth before I seal it with Mod Podge & Gesso or use those sealers to help fill in the imperfections instead?

I haven't worked with this type of clay before and since it is a bit spongy even after it air drys, it is a bit different to work with than I'm used to.

When I work with model magic I find sometimes straight out of the package it is difficult to work with. I always kneed in some water to make it softer and easier to work with. You can also wet your fingers and try to smooth bumps later on. Be careful, if you add too much water you will cause surface cracking when the piece dries.

Model magic does not sand very well, however you can use a very fine grit (high number paper) to try and smooth it further. I find nailfiles work about right, but they always leave a rough texture. You can use modge podge, gesso or whatever to help smooth the piece, but you should make sure any large imperfections are corrected first, or it just becomes difficult.

Model magic does not like to blend well with itself or other pieces so try to create your piece in one sitting, instead of adding or what not. Depending on what sort of piece you are making you can use a sandable air dry clay (like paperclay) to smooth over cracks or large bumps, since paperclay is very easily sandable and likes to blend together. ( I did that here [url]http://www.cosplay.com/photo/2547399/[/url] the paperclay is the darker yellow color, while the model magic is white)

[QUOTE=Dust Bunny;3490165]Model magic does not like to blend well with itself or other pieces so try to create your piece in one sitting, instead of adding or what not. Depending on what sort of piece you are making you can use a sandable air dry clay (like paperclay) to smooth over cracks or large bumps, since paperclay is very easily sandable and likes to blend together. ( I did that here [url]http://www.cosplay.com/photo/2547399/[/url] the paperclay is the darker yellow color, while the model magic is white)[/QUOTE]

This thread is a life saver- I was just starting to have some troubles with my model magic.

What brand of paper clay do you use? Do you order it online or do they sell it at craft stores?

Craft stores sell paperclay. I've found it at Blick, Hobby Lobby, Michaels. I can't recall if JoAnns had it. I've used Creative brand Paperclay.

You can even find directions for making your own, online.

I'm currently fighting my own battles with Model Magic. It's going decently. this time.

Like others have said, Model Magic can't be molded to itself or anything else. You gotta mold it all outta one big chunk (a problem since it only comes in those kinda small packages).

So for covering things, or molding anything more complex than a solid blob (which I have done with it successfully before!), go with Paperclay, which can be molded, stuck to itself, sanded, painted, and sealed easily. :)

It's a two-part process in using Model Magic. In order to keep it as smooth as possible and looking uniform, the first part (when it's fresh out of the package and hasn't tried yet) has the greatest impact in my opinion. To make it softer and more easy to knead and shape, I like to use a touch of water. After to mold it to whatever you're using it for, you can further smooth the surface with a dab more water and kneading the bumps and whatever you're not happy with. Basically, water renders it more pliable is what I'm trying to get across. Part two is after it dries. However, I find that there's not much else other than sanding that can shape it. I use about 60-90 grit sandpaper (depending on how much I need to sand smooth). However, I noticed that the sandpaper can only correct minor problems at this point and the larger imperfections can't really be worked out.

I usually seal it after it's dry with Mod Podge rather than when it's still retaining moisture.

Hope that helps!

A tip I found worked pretty well for me.

If your model magic has dried a bit and is becoming difficult to work with, I discovered that leaving a small amount of mist/water inside of a plastic bag with it can help it re-hydrate without making it too sticky.

Model Magic® ideas for grown-ups: DIY necklaces and earrings

Crayola® Model Magic®—the lightweight, squishy, spongy, clay-like material kids love to play with—is super-fun for grown-up makers, too. (We tested this theory with a Crayola® Model Magic® workshop with some of our Hallmark Artist friends, so we know it’s true.) Grab some jewelry findings and a few household tools to try these Model Magic® ideas for your own handmade jewelry.

DIY CRAYOLA® MODEL MAGIC® WORKSHOP SUPPLIES

Crayola® Model Magic® in a variety of colors—we used white, black, blue, red, and yellow

Wax paper

Rolling pin or glass bottle

Small cookie cutters

Card stock

Craft knife

Jewelry findings:

Earring ball posts and backs

Fishhook earring wires

Kidney-shaped earring wires

Assorted sizes of jump rings with open connectors

Eye pins

Gold chain

Needle-nose jewelry pliers

Tweezers

Stuff to make holes and textures, like toothpicks, meat tenderizers or forks

Super Glue®

Model Magic® Glossy Glaze or Model Magic® Silver Shimmer Glaze—optional ways to add shine and protect your finished creations

Pro tips for your Crayola™ Model Magic® workshop

First, get the colors you want. Two easy techniques:

• Knead colors together to blend new colors.
• Tint the Model Magic® by coloring it with Crayola® markers, then kneading it.

For flat shapes, smoosh the Model Magic® to about 1/8″ thick with a rolling pin or bottle, then cut out your shapes with cookie cutters or a template and craft knife.

Pro tip

It’s a little easier to cut flat designs when the compound has dried out a little. Roll out your Model Magic® then let it sit out for a couple of hours, and it’ll still be perfectly pliable.

For these earrings, we poked an eye pin through a ball, glued it into the U shape, then attached a fishhook earring wire. The Model Magic® is super-light, so even bulky designs are wearable.

For a trendy terrazzo effect:

• Roll out your base color to an even thickness.
• Roll out smaller amounts of two or three additional colors really thin and use a craft knife to cut small geometric shapes.
• Use tweezers or the tip of the craft knife to put the shapes on the base.
• Roll it all a tiny bit more to stick it together.

To make two-sided designs, stick two pieces back to back with eye pins in between. If the Model Magic® still has some tack to it, they’ll stay together—otherwise, use the glue.

Make holes for jewelry connectors with an eye pin, toothpick—even a straw.

Two ways to do stripes and squiggles:

• Roll small snake shapes and press or roll them onto the base layer.
• Draw them on with a permanent marker.

For a marbled effect: Start kneading two (or more) colors together. Stop before you see the colors really blending—it’s easy to overdo it!

You can add length to earrings by combining jump rings and eye pins—or chains.

Artist Rie E. used a meat tenderizer to create texture. Try using other household objects as stamps!

Let your jewelry dry for 24-36 hours before you wear it.

Model Magic® does stay kind of soft and fluffy—so it’s better for necklaces and earrings than rings or bracelets that might get banged up. Add Glossy Glaze or Silver Shimmer Glaze for shine and protection.

Want more Model Magic® ideas? Our friends at Crayola® have a gazillion.

And OF COURSE we want to see what you made. Tag us on Instagram at @think.make.share.

Crayola model magic tips

The new Fright Radio is coming out soon here and on iTunes. Below you'll find the transcript of my segment on sculpting with Model Magic clay.

Good evening. I’m Mr. Chicken, and you’re entering my Hall of Illusions. This time we’re going to talk about how to get the best results out of one of the cheapest and easiest to find sculpting mediums out there—Crayola Model Magic.

As I mentioned in the last episode, the big advantage of air dry clays for is that your sculpture is your final product. You don’t need to mold and cast to get a usable prop.

I used model magic for the heads of most of the characters in my haunt. Here’s what I found worked best for me. I’d pick something to use as an armature. A skull or modified foam wighead work well. To modify a wighead for use as an armature, cut off the nose and lips, and carve down the sides of the head a bit so you won’t be forced to follow the proportions of those things. Wrap the armature in aluminum foil before sculpting—more on that later.

Then you just want to tear off pieces of clay, form them into approximately the right shape for the facial feature you’re working on, and apply it to the form. You want to work in this way, rather than trying to mush around large pieces, because the model magic has a strange elastic quality that makes it difficult to reshape, so try to get your forms as close as you can when you first lay them down. A blob for the nose, blobs for the cheeks and chin, you get the idea. Water will help smooth and blend between these blobs, as will very thin pieces of clay from time to time. Plastic balls cut in half make good eyes.

When you’re ready for details like wrinkles, take your tool and wet it first so it will glide over the clay and not stick to it. Unlike more professional clays, the model magic doesn’t like to be refined gradually. It’s more about picking a shape and sticking with it. This means that you’ll often end up with a face that doesn’t quite match your original plan, but that’s part of the fun.

If you need to walk away from your sculpture for the day, just spritz it with a little water and put a plastic bag over it.

In my experience, air dry clays will crack if one side dries out faster than the other. The Crayola air dry clays (Model Magic, and pretty much any air dry clay out there, as far as I know) are water based. The water needs to evaporate from the clay in order for it to harden. Now, as the water evaporates, the clay loses mass and shrinks. However, if something (such as the armature you’re sculpting on, be it a skull, foam head, or wad of newspaper) prevents the water from escaping evenly, one side (the face) will dry faster than the other (the inside). This means that the outside is shrinking faster than the inside, so it cracks.

When I make heads in air dry clay, I cover my armature (either a skull or foam wig head) in aluminum foil so that as soon as the face is dry to the touch, I can remove it from the armature, peel off the foil, and allow the sculpture to dry thoroughly. I do this by slicing the sculpture from ear to ear with an xacto blade, and pulling the two halves apart.

Shortly thereafter, I give the whole thing a coat of latex-based paint, just in case, to hold the surface together should any cracking be tempted to ensue. You need a base coat anyway. I like to paint the rest in washes and drybrushing with cheap acrylic paints.

To attach it to a body, I shoot a bit of great stuff in the head. just enough to grab the PVC that makes up the neck.

That’s what’s worked for me in the past. If you have any questions, suggestions, or tips of your own to share, let me know at chickenhaunt [at] gmail.com.

The Magic 4 also supports NFC technology, enabling users to make payments conveniently. With its stylish and versatile design, the Kospet Magic 4 stylish wristwatch seamlessly combines form and function to provide users with a high-tech accessory that enhances both their style and daily life..

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